Dining Del Lago 2012

In the Hill Country Galleria

All Star Burger

12921 Hill Country Blvd., #105, Bee Cave, 512/263-7300, http://www.allstarburger.com/
Mon.-Sun., 11am-9pm; Sat., 11am-8pm
Dining Del Lago 2012

All Star Burger

12921 Hill Country Blvd., #105; 263-7300
Sunday-Thursday 11am-9pm; Friday-Saturday 11am-10pm

At first, I thought, "Oh great, just what we need, another friggin' burger joint." But I was assigned the place, so in I went. The place was packed and everyone looked happy. I grabbed a menu while waiting to order and started reading what amounted to a mission statement. They promise to use only Angus beef from cows that have been fed a 100% vegetarian diet with no artificial growth hormones or antibiotics. The burgers and other sandwiches go on preservative-free buns baked daily in Central Texas. "We support local farms and vendors in our search for the freshest, healthiest possible ingredients," they say, though that is a trendy statement with lots of wiggle room. They proudly serve American wine and beer, though they were light on Texas wines. The shakes are made from hand-dipped Blue Bell Creameries Ice Cream. But all these promises wouldn't mean much if you couldn't trust the owners. That's when I saw the fellow slaving over the milkshakes – Shane Street.

Anyone who's ever eaten out in Dallas will know the Street family. Shane's uncle, Gene, owned Prufrocks, the Black-eyed Pea, Dixie House, Good Eats Cafe, Lucky's, Cantina Lar­edo, III Forks, and Cool River Cafe. Shane's cousins are spread out around the restaurant business in Dallas, as well. In the meantime, Shane's been making a career here in Austin, managing Cool River, the Grille at Rough Hol­low, and Steiner Ranch Steakhouse. All Star Burger is his first foray into the entrepreneurial side of the food business and judging from our food, he's got it figured very nicely.

His burger menu is especially inventive. My favorite is the West ($8), which has cheddar, roasted jalapeños, and garlic-cilantro infused cream cheese. Though it was plenty, my only wish was that it was even bigger. The beef patty was tender, juicy, thick, and hand-formed. The flavors and textures demonstrated that someone had spent some time experimenting. We also loved the Pacific Coast ($8), a burger stuffed with Monterey Jack and topped with avocado slices and tart, creamy mustard. I was tempted by the Make My Day burger ($8.50). When I used to live in Portland, one of the great bar burgers was called the Garbage Grinder – a burger topped with a slice of ham, a fried egg, three strips of bacon, and a slab of cheese. It would be illegal in New York. Well, the Make My Day is much the same, except they've substituted skillet hash browns for the ham. Whew! A chocolate shake ($4) rounded out the day's festivities and all I can say is it was so rich and thick, we wondered if they forgot to put milk in it. This place is going to be giving other burger joints nightmares.

Sign up for the Chronicle Cooking newsletter

New recipes and food news delivered Mondays

If you want to submit a recipe, send it to food@austinchronicle.com

A note to readers: Bold and uncensored, The Austin Chronicle has been Austin’s independent news source for almost 40 years, expressing the community’s political and environmental concerns and supporting its active cultural scene. Now more than ever, we need your support to continue supplying Austin with independent, free press. If real news is important to you, please consider making a donation of $5, $10 or whatever you can afford, to help keep our journalism on stands.

Support the Chronicle  

READ MORE
More by Wes Marshall
Weekend Wine: This Dry Rosé is a Summertime Dazzler
Weekend Wine: This Dry Rosé is a Summertime Dazzler
It's a Washington winner in deep pink

July 18, 2020

Weekend Wine: Pinot Noir at a Reasonable Price
Weekend Wine: Pinot Noir at a Reasonable Price
Four Austin dudes shake up the red wine world

May 30, 2020

MORE IN THE ARCHIVES
NEWSLETTERS
One click gets you all the newsletters listed below

Breaking news, arts coverage, and daily events

Can't keep up with happenings around town? We can help.

Austin's queerest news and events

New recipes and food news delivered Mondays

All questions answered (satisfaction not guaranteed)

Information is power. Support the free press, so we can support Austin.   Support the Chronicle