The Austin Chronicle

Restaurant Review

Reviewed by Mick Vann, February 17, 2012, Food

Taco More

9400 Parkfield Dr., 821-1561 
Daily: 7am–11pm

Lurking on the Northwest corner of Parkfield and Rundberg, I had driven by this taqueria for years before I was finally lured inside. The door is on the north side, right off the "alley" between the inside dining room and the plastic-covered patio. You enter and place your order at the counter; they give you a number and then call it out a couple of minutes later. Looming near the order counter is the salsa bar, a majestic, spicy temple to the chile, loaded with six sauces (arbol with peanuts, raw casera, cooked red, searing green made of jalapeño and avocado, roasted tomatillo, and raw tomatillo with avocado), as well as escabeche, pico de gallo, radish slices, cilantro, limes, etc. The corn tortillas are homemade and delicious. The basket of totopos comes with yet another cooked red salsa.

The bathtub-sized bowl of posole ($4.50/$6) is superb, with copious chunks of melting pork mixed with hominy, onions, and garlic, all in a rich pork broth laced with dried red chiles and herbs. The cabrito consommé ($2.50/4.50/6.50) is culinary perfection: a very rich and oh so slightly gamey goat stock loaded with shredded cabrito, chickpeas, and a hint of spiciness. Our gringa ($3.50) was loaded with oozing, white cheese and tender, rich bistec. Its specialty is probably the cabrito or chivo taco ($2), which is rich, tender, luscious, and overstuffed. The cabeza ($2, what many places call barbacoa) is very flavorful and avoids the greasiness to which many barbacoas succumb. The carnitas ($1.50) have deep, intense, porky flavor; simply one of the better versions in town. The pastor ($1.50) is tender and caramelized, avoiding the overly sweet fruitiness that plagues many versions.

A wonderful chile relleno ($6.50) with some of the best garlicky Mexican rice we've ever had; a limy-fresh ceviche tostado ($3); a massive torta Cubano ($4.50, with pastor, ham, cheese, grilled hot dog, avocado, and lettuce) – even the aguas are fantastic. Taco More is in our Top 5, and all we can say is mas, mas, mas!

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