Restaurant Review: Restaurant Reviews
Once you get over the giant tree you're eating under, gorge yourself on some meat
Reviewed by Rachel Feit, Fri., July 23, 2010
El Arbol
Mon.-Fri., 5pm-10:30pm; Sat.-Sun., 10am-12mid
El Arbol
3411 Glenview, 323-5177, www.elarbolrestaurant.comDinner: Tuesday-Sunday, 5pm-10pm; brunch: Saturday-Sunday, 10am-3pm
El Arbol is the latest luminary in the garland of tony new restaurants that has been steadily transforming the Austin dining scene, turning a once-provincial food town into a humming culinary hive. This Argentine-influenced restaurant has certainly generated a lot of buzz since it first opened earlier this year – though it is unclear whether this is attributable to the food or just the great space.
Aptly named for the sprawling oak tree that forms the centerpiece of the huge, multilevel outdoor porch, the restaurant feels almost like a modern tree house. Outside, glowing white globes hang from the tree's ancient branches, illuminating the porches like miniature moons. Inside, all views are also dominated by the tree. The dining rooms' huge glass walls face onto the porch. The interior decor leans toward 1970s Hollywood Regency, all concrete and glass and white upholstery, broken by perforated wood screens that give the place a Scandinavian flavor. Three different levels further divide the space in a clubby, Studio 54 arrangement. On Friday nights El Arbol is buzzing with platform-heeled women in short dresses – typically followed by smartly attired men sporting aviator glasses and casual linen clothing. When it's busy, the noise levels inside the restaurant are almost deafening.
El Arbol is the type of place where a cocktail before dinner is like a secret handshake – it gets you in the club. The icy, sweet caipirinha ($9), the house specialty made from cachaça (cane sugar rum), lime, and sugar, seems almost custom-fitted to Austin's hot summer nights.
The food at El Arbol draws most of its inspiration from the flavors of Argentina. Steaks ($22-63), grilled meats, and empanadas loom large on the menu, though the kitchen doesn't limit itself to the basics familiar to most American palates. Organ meats and exotic game make regular appearances, as do some of the lesser-known Argentine favorites such as matambre, flank steak pinwheeled with spinach, carrots, and egg ($12).
The flavors are bold and, frankly, sometimes border on heavy-handed. For instance, the chimichurri sauce (a sort of vinegary pesto made with parsley, onions, olive oil, and garlic) that accompanies the empanadas and grilled meats was too oily. The ceviche appetizer ($11) was overpowered by peppers (both sweet and spicy), and the gnocchi in cream sauce ($7) was ruined by vinegar-soaked mushrooms. One night the kitchen served an appetizer consisting of bruschetta topped with smoked veal sweetbreads, arugula, and homemade lamb "bacon" ($12). The sweetbreads were smooth and velvety, the lamb bacon at once sweet and salty, with crisp edges of fat, not unlike the addictive bits of fat on the outside of a roast lamb. Both were delicious, and layered on a thick slice of grilled bread, the dish would have been plenty rich without the slather of garlic mayonnaise, which, for me, put the whole ensemble over the top.
On the other hand, the kitchen also dishes up some inspired fare. The empanadas ($4-5) are truly excellent, made from pastry dough that is rich and flaky, but with a little chew. The fillings – such as spiced pork, almonds, and raisins or spinach and cheese – stand up admirably. A plato principale of pork belly over sweet potato risotto was simply stunning. The pork belly was first braised until tender enough to fall apart with a fork, then coated with sugar and vinegar, and seared to caramelize the edges. The smooth sweet potato risotto brought the whole dish together. A dish of stewed rabbit ($25) served in thick paprika sauce over crunchy fried potatoes made me want to lick the plate clean.
For dessert, I advise steering clear of the overbearing alfajores ($8), a dense flourless chocolate cake sandwiching cajeta and topped with coconut whipped cream. Instead, order the delicate fennel flan with orange syrup ($7), a tamer way to end the audacious, meat-heavy meals at El Arbol.
