The Austin Chronicle

Mariscos in Austin

Mexican seafood restaurants are a gustatory vacation

April 30, 2010, Food

Mariscos Seafood

1504 Town Creek Dr., 462-9119
Daily, 11am-10pm

Located in a blue compound just off of Riverside Drive, Mariscos Seafood is half inside (more than half if you include the adjacent dining room) and half outside on the breezy patio. We left a little confused. The caldo de mariscos ($3.25, cup) was way too salty. It had the requisite seafood included but tasted more like a gumbo than a Mexican soup. The shrimp cocktail ($8.75) was like a hybrid of a U.S. horseradish cocktail sauce and a Mexican one – not unpleasant, but not authentic Mexican. The ceviche tostada ($4.25) was a mound of tilapia cubes marinated in lime with onion, tomato, cilantro, and avocado; no complaints here.

The pulpo tostada ($3.25) had very tender octopus swathed in a dark, sweet tomato sauce (use your lemon here!). A fish taco ($2.95) was fine: Double-wrapped corn tortilla encases fried tilapia with lightly dressed cabbage, onion, and tomato; it was nice with some salsa added. We couldn't resist the hand-battered onion rings ($3.75), made using red onions. They had a crispy crust, were sweet and oniony, and worked nicely with the included tartar sauce. Mariscos has a 4-8pm happy hour offering half-price appetizers as well as drink specials.

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