Wine of the Week

Bonny Doon's Le Pousseur

The last decade has seen a huge increase in American consumption of Syrah. Whether one of the big, burly, bad guys of the east Washington dryland; the more elegant style from France's Rhône; or the teeth-blackening Australian version – called Shiraz by the natives – the grape is finding lots of friends in the U.S. The grape's main problem is its broad range of styles and flavors. Based on how early or late it is picked and how the grapes are cared for, Syrah can be a raging monster that can overpower any dish other than a dense casserole, or it can be a quiet wine ideal for a simple piece of grilled meat.

Randall Grahm, president and resident eccentric of Bonny Doon Vineyard, has different ideas about wine than most Californians. Take the label of his top Syrah, a wine he calls "Le Pousseur." It shows a "pusher" opening his coat and offering various herbs and flowers, trying to tempt with his gaze. Grahm likes the concept. He's doing some pushing with this exceptional wine.

His goal, as you might guess from the French name, is to move more toward an elegant and food-friendly wine. This wine has the structure and tannic richness to go with a rich dish like a cassoulet, but it also has the big ripe fruit flavors to go with smoked meats. You usually only find that combination in the best Rhône wines, many of which are priced in the high three figures. Bonny Doon's Le Pousseur runs about $15.

Le Pousseur is available from better wine merchants, including Whole Foods Market, Central Market, and many Twin Liquors locations.