Restaurant Review: Restaurant Reviews
At Shuck Shack, the vibe is consistently summery, but the food is hit-or-miss
Reviewed by Claudia Alarcón, Fri., Nov. 13, 2009
Shuck Shack
1808 E. Cesar Chavez, 472-4242www.shuckshack.com
Tuesday-Sunday, 11am-10pm; bar open until 12mid
Last summer, a friend tipped me off to the opening of a Gulf Coast seafood restaurant in her neighborhood. I went in as soon as I spotted the open sign on the window of the remodeled former Azul. On a hot August afternoon, a beer and some refreshing ceviche – full of fresh fish, scallops, and shrimp – were just what I needed. I loved the fact that the new owners not only respected but actually improved the outdoor area. The patio is even more inviting than before, with plenty of shade and a water feature in the middle. They added parking, a horseshoe pitch, and a bocce lawn. There's a window where diners can order directly from the bar if they want to stay outside. Inside, there are tables and a comfortable bar. You really expect to be able to see the ocean about a block away.
Unfortunately, on a recent visit we found the food to be hit-or-miss. For appetizers, we recommend the barbecue oysters ($8.50) grilled on the half-shell, topped with Parmesan, olive oil, and lemon juice. Glenn's Smoked Fish Spread ($6.50), clearly made with in-house smoked fish, is an excellent shareable snack. I enjoyed the plump New Orleans-style barbecue shrimp ($11.95) swimming in a Worcestershire-heavy sauce with caramelized onions and lots of rosemary, with plenty of French bread for sopping. And I could eat a few orders of the Shrimp Diablo ($8.50) with a cold beer or wash it down with the wonderfully horseradish-y Bloody Marys.
Then there were a few items that missed the mark. The catfish po'boy ($7.95) lacked flavor and texture: The catfish completely disintegrated inside the bread, and the condiments were bland. We liked the Texas caviar side dish: black-eyed peas tossed with white posole kernels, chopped poblanos, tomato, and olive oil, but the restaurant was out of green salad, the cole slaw was flavorless (with no acidity, salt, or spice), and the fries were cold, limp, and clearly from a frozen package.
Granted, the kitchen at Shuck Shack is temporarily housed in a (state-of-the-art) trailer on the premises, but that's no excuse for cold food or a lack of seasoning. It is, however, the reason everything must be served in disposable containers (by city ordinance), but Shuck Shack is doing its best to recycle, and the cardboard boats actually add to the seafood shack feel. Overall, I like Shuck Shack and will return for the summery vibe and friendly service – but I hope it works on fine-tuning the food a bit to round out the experience.
