Hyde Park Market, Deli & Organic Grocery

With 150-plus beers, Boar's Head meats, and pork rinds, Hyde Park has struck gold

Restaurant Review
Photo by John Anderson

Hyde Park Market, Deli & Organic Grocery

4429 Duval St.
Sunday-Friday, 6:30am-12mid; Saturday, 6:30am-1am

In the not-too-distant past, the local Stop 'n' Rob was good for little more than gas, a bag of pork rinds, and an 18-pack of Bud Light. But business survival depends on response to the local market, and Central Austin is ... well ... different.

Items such as fine foods and quality beer have slowly crept into the landscape, but wow, the new management at Hyde Park Market, formerly the Sunrise Super Stop, has taken it to the extreme – especially in the beer department. Samuel Adams' Hallertau Imper­ial Pilsner? The Boulevard Brew­ing Co. Smoke­stack Series? Umpteen different Belgian varieties? In a corner store? This is serious beer-snob territory. The new proprietors have knocked down the back wall, expanding into the space next door, and carry – seriously – "about 550" different beers, I was told. We're talking a selection on a par with big boys like Grape Vine Market, Spec's, and Central Market. (I've heard similar things about the legendary Whip In, but being a North Austinite, I've never had occasion to visit that South Austin institution.)

The expansion is about more than beer. There's also a decent wine selection, and foodies will be pleasantly surprised by the deli selection with numerous Boar's Head meats, and I spotted Indian and Thai choices in the frozen-foods bin. They also proudly boast of a large selection of organic products. But I'm mostly there for the beer.

On my most recent visit, I grabbed the long-missed Celis Grand Cru, recently revived by Michigan Brewing Co. I also couldn't resist Ale to the Chief!, a special, limited-release concoction from Boulder, Colo.'s Avery Brewing that was meant to be enjoyed on Jan. 20 – and one not likely to be found even in corner stores with wider-than-usual beer selections.

Satan Golden Ale from Bel­gium? Check. Deschutes from Bend, Ore.? Check. It just goes on and on down the aisle, stuff you just can't believe is crammed into this tiny spot. Hyde Park, you have a gold mine hiding in your hood.

And yes, you can still get pork rinds there. And I don't think they're organic.

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