Restaurant Review: Restaurant Review

Olivia

2043 S. Lamar, 512/804-2700, http://www.olivia-austin.com
Tue.-Thu., 5-10pm; Fri., 5-11pm; Sat., 10am-2:30pm, 5-11pm; Sun., 10am-4pm

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Photo by John Anderson

Dahlia Cafe

Dahlia Cafe has been in business for about a year in the quaint converted farmhouse about two miles west of Highway 183 off Highway 29 in Liberty Hill. Behind the restaurant, you'll find a shady outdoor eating area nestled beneath oak trees with a play area for the kids. The rustic wooden deck area hosts a 1950s-style booth for intimate evening conversations when weekend bands are not playing.

Inside hosts a decent number of tables amply spaced on hardwood floors, windows viewing the herb-landscaped front garden, and a team of friendly and efficient waitstaff. Colorful chalkboards announce desserts and daily specials along with the wine list of Texas favorites such as Llano Shiraz, Lost Creek Cabernet, and several blush and white selections.

The menu includes an assortment of Southern comfort-food selections, including fried chicken livers, meat loaf, chicken-fried steak and chicken, burgers, and sides. The prices range from $1.99 kettle chips (appetizer) to $14.99 rib-eye steak dinner.

Our order of spinach artichoke dip ($5.99), described on the menu as "baked to bubbly perfection" was not baked; rather, it was more of a cool saladlike snack that was tasty nonetheless. Heaped on house-made kettle chips, the subtle garlic and hearty fresh baby spinach were an interesting alternative to the bar-grub version of this dip found elsewhere, but I couldn't help wonder how much better it would have been all bubbly and melty. Maybe next time.

The chicken-fried chicken ($8.99) with jalapeño white gravy arrived as a giant crunchy-tender-spicy delight that covered half the plate. Generous portions of my two side selections – green beans and macaroni and cheese – took the other half. The green beans were crisp and smokily seasoned, and the mac and cheese creamy and sinful, made with rigatoni pasta and a cheddary blend of cheeses.

My dining buddy ordered the pork chops and spiced apples ($9.99): pure heaven, reminding him of the apples his Louisiana mother used to make when he was a kid. That's some high praise – believe me! The chops were tasty and tender. The mashed potatoes were light and fluffy and generously dressed in his choice of savory brown gravy. The sautéed spinach was lightly cooked with a mild seasoning that enhanced the baby spinach leaves.

The dessert list presented difficult choices, but we went with buttermilk pie and coconut chess pie, each a custard-based Southern delicacy and both excellent selections ($3.29). The buttermilk pie was creamy and not too sweet, with a crunchy, almost brûléelike top. The coconut chess pie was sweet and swirling with intense coconut flavor reminiscent of macaroons but lighter. These pies were like albino pecan pie, sans nuts.

Other options on the menu include several sandwich selections (BLT, chicken salad, turkey avocado), veggie plates, grilled seasonal fish, and other heart-healthy selections. They even have a bunless burger for those still on the carb-free regime. We'll be returning to this home-style cookery soon, perhaps on a Saturday for some beer, chicken livers, and live music out in the back yard. Maybe the spinach artichoke dip, too. Hot this time.