Well Connected
Shalimar's extensive menu shows the many influences of Pakistani-Indo fare
By Mick Vann, Fri., Sept. 9, 2005
Shalimar Restaurant
9310 N. Lamar, 719-3700
Monday-Thursday, 11:30am-11pm; Friday-Saturday, 11:30am-12mid; Sunday, noon-11pm
Shalimar is Pakistani-run – quasi-unique in Austin, as Pakistanis run many of the markets, but not many of the restaurants – and serves Pakistani-Indo cuisine. Being situated smack in the middle of the main trade routes linking East and West, Pakistan's foods were influenced through history by the Mongols, Chinese, Indians, Iranians, and Afghans. More importantly, in 1526 it became part of the Islamic Mogul Empire, so the dietary rules of the Muslims were imposed (and the tandoor oven was introduced). Think of it as really spicy Eastern Persian food, or semimildly spiced Western Indian cuisine.
It is said that any Pakistani chef worth his salt knows at least 300 recipes off the top of his head. Shalimar's menu has roughly 75 dishes from which to choose, so it can be a little intimidating for the newbie at first glance. This is definitely a menu where you should be adventurous, because there are no descriptions of the dishes, and sometimes the explanations by the staff can be cryptic. Regardless, the food is great, and it's hard to go wrong. But don't hesitate to ask questions.
One dish you have to order is the Kaju Mutter Paneer ($6.99), an amazingly creamy combination of cashews, green peas, and cubes of paneer cheese with mild but intricate spicing. Shalimar's version of Palak Paneer ($5.49) is one of the best around: Its delicacy sets it apart from mere spinach and cheese. One of the true stars of the entire menu is the Goat Kahari ($7.99). A kahari is a small wok, also called an "Indian wok," and the dish is cooked (and brought to the table) in this vessel. Originally a dish from Hyderabad, it's an aromatic blend of succulent baby goat meat, stewed with tomatoes, chiles, onions, ginger, garlic, and tamarind.
Beef Nihari ($5.99) is another standout: chunks of meltingly tender beef in a dark reddish-brown sauce flavored with ginger, chiles, yogurt, cumin, anise, cardamom, bay, and cinnamon. It's served with slivers of fresh ginger and sliced chiles – a perfect addition at the last moment. Chicken Jalfarezi ($6.49) is a winner: boneless chicken chunks seasoned with bell pepper, tomato, red onion, garlic, cumin, chiles, turmeric, and butter. You'll need some flat breads to scoop up all of this incredible sauce, so we recommend the buttery, multilayered Paratha ($1) and the herbed Kulcha Naan or the Onion Naan ($1.19). All are top notch.
Another visit had us eating the Daal Fry ($5.49). Think of it as a spicy and wonderfully complex bowl of split-pea soup. It goes great with the superlative Mixed Grill ($7.99), a platter with a formed ground meat seekh kebab (spicy and intricate), cubes of bihari kebab (coated with a fresh spice paste), and one of the best tandoor tika chicken leg quarters in Austin. All three of the meats were moist and juicy and multilayered in flavor profile, especially when you add some of the searing and tart "barbecue" sauce. Top it off with a Mango Lassi ($2.49), and it's a done deal.
If you're too indecisive, there's always the buffet option, served from 11:15 until 3pm for lunch ($6.99), or from 5:45 to 9pm at dinner ($7.99). The buffet isn't exactly lavish, but there's plenty to choose from, and it looks and smells fantastic. To tempt you after dinner, there is a huge counter of burfis, small confections made from milk, sugar, nuts, fruits, and spices (they'll let you taste if you're not sure).
Shalimar is near the southwest corner of Rundberg and North Lamar, in what might have once been a Western-themed or Swiss restaurant. The ambience is confusing and multicultural at best. Most entertaining are the Bollywood movies and the hip-shaking Pakistani-Indo music videos that play on the big-screen TVs. If you're lucky, there might be a rousing game of cricket to watch. Throw caution to the wind and order willy-nilly at the counter: Whatever you get you'll love. You won't find booze or beer or pork at Shalimar, but you will find Pakistani food that will lure you back. 
