Tropic of Capsaicin

An Exploration of the Hot Dishes in a Hot City, Or Where to Go When You're Not at Waterloo Park

Tiger Cry at Thai Kitchen

803 E. William Cannon, 445-4844;

3437 Bee Caves Rd., 328-3538;

3009 Guadalupe, 474-2575

Monday-Friday, 11:30am-2:30pm, 5-9:30pm
In the States, the classic dish "Tiger Cry" has taken on a new meaning as being a "dish so hot that it makes even a tiger cry," but that is far from the old translation of the dish in Thailand. Originally, the dish was made only with work-retired water-buffalo meat and involved slicing and cooking the meat, then serving it with a fiery sauce containing the incendiary prik khee noo. It is known as "Tiger Cry" over there because the meat is so tough and hard to eat that it made a tiger cry. Owners Toy and Em's version ($11) is a mixed meat-and-seafood mélange (pork, beef, chicken, scallops, shrimp, and squid) with bamboo shoots and zucchini in fiery green curry and coconut milk, emboldened with the addition of both Thai chiles and prik khee noo, producing a dish that instantly opens the sinuses and causes sweat to pop out on the forehead. For lovers of the super hot, you'll be pleased to know that the assorted meats are quite tender and toothsome, but you will weep from the combined heat of the curry paste and the chile duo.

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