Second Helpings: A Little Italy, Part 3
"Second Helpings" takes you on a third tour of Italy in Austin.
Fri., June 13, 2003
Italian Garden
14611 Burnet Rd., 388-1062
Tuesday-Friday, 11am-2pm; Tuesday-Thursday, 5:15-9pm; Friday-Saturday, 5:15-10pm
The devil might be in the details, but so is the divine. And it's attention to the little things that help make Italian Garden a sweet surprise in a far-North strip center, from the bowl of croutons on every table to the delicate herbal house dressing to the soft, yeasty home-style bread. Specializing in hearty southern Italian "Brooklyn-style" fare, this friendly family establishment serves up loving attention in every dish. The melt-in-your-bocca veal parmigiana is exceptional.
La Traviata
314 Congress, 479-8131
Monday-Thursday, 11am-2pm, 5:30-10pm (bar open later); Friday, 11am-2pm, 5:30-10:30pm; Saturday, 5:30-10:30pm
This bright downtown restaurant with the operatic name is popular at lunch and dinner, serving straightforward Italian food composed of fresh and seasonal ingredients. The dishes on the menu are characterized by light sauces, fresh vegetables, and judicious use of fresh herbs and aromatics, perfectly suited to Austin's summer weather. The generously portioned chicken Parmesan is succulent and subtle, and the deceptively simple spaghetti bolognese is a charming combination of ground veal, beef, and pork with mixed wild mushrooms.
Bellagio Italian Bistro
6507 Jester, 346-8228
Sunday-Thursday, 5:30-10:30pm; Friday-Saturday, 5:30-11:30pm
Bellagio's popularity means that, unless you wish to dine at 9pm, you should prepare yourself for a wait, even with a reservation. Use your time to work up an appetite; this upscale place doles out absolutely enormous portions of well-prepared trattoria fare. The thick, succulent pork chop comes with creamy spinach and pine nuts, vegetables, and wedges of deep-fried polenta. The Sicilian seafood combination, enough for you and your best friend, is a platter of tagliatelle, covered in quantities of steamed mussels and clams, scallops, and shrimp, sauced in a mildly spicy tomato broth, and smothered with crisply tender, fried calamari.
Siena Ristorante Toscana
6203 Capital of TX Hwy. N., 349-7667
Monday-Thursday, 11:30am-2pm, 5:30-10pm; Friday, 11:30am-2pm, 5:30-11pm; Saturday, 5:30-11pm; Sunday, 5:30-10pm
While Highway 360 near FM 2222 is not exactly in the country anymore, dining in Siena's imposing Tuscan-style stone manor house might beguile you into thinking that it is. The ambitious northern Italian-style menu includes salmon and veal dishes, pastas, and seasonal soups. Choose from a variety of substantial salads, including an asparagus salad and a refreshing mixed-shellfish salad.
Piccolo Italian Cafe
2828 Rio Grande St., 476-5600
Monday-Thursday, 11am-2:30pm, 5-9:30pm; Friday, 11am-2:30, 5-10pm; Saturday, 5-10pm
www.piccolocafe.com
The funky, industrial exterior of Piccolo gives no clue to the tastefully sedate and romantic ambience inside. Definitely the best spot for a food date within walking distance of UT, Piccolo offers a pleasing variety of house-made pastas and wood-fired pizzas, hot and cold appetizers, and nicely prepared chicken, seafood, and veal entrées. Choose from the selection of moderately priced Italian wines and end your meal with the richly flavorful but delicate tiramisu.
Asti Trattoria
408 E. 43rd, 451-1218Monday-Thursday, 11am-10pm; Friday-Saturday, 5-11pm
www.astiaustin.com
In their Hyde Park venture, those talented Foxes, Emmett and Lisa, have achieved that rarest of combinations in Austin restaurant fare -- food that is simultaneously sophisticated and unpretentious, skillfully prepared and artfully presented. The menu includes dishes styled from various Italian regional cuisines -- Tuscan to Calabrian to Sicilian -- and the extensive wine list offers an interesting range of mostly Italian and Cal-Ital selections.
Rocco's Grill
900 RR 620 S., 263-8204
Monday-Tuesday, 11am-3pm, 5-9pm; Wednesday-Friday, 11am-3pm, 5-10pm; Saturday, 5-10pm; Sunday, 5-9pm
www.roccosgrill.com
Houston real estate mogul Rocco "Rocky" Piazza owns and runs this Italian grill overlooking the hills of Lakeway. Pasta and seafood selections are the way to go at Rocco's with choices like the Trout Traina, a trout fillet rolled in toasted hazelnuts and grilled to flaky perfection, and Pasta Analisa, penne topped with roasted eggplant, squash, and zucchini with marinara sauce.