Surf and Turf, Travis-Style

Lakeside dining 2002: by boat or by car, bring your appetite

Texas Star Kitchen

1602 S. RR 620, 402-0222

Monday-Friday, 6:30am-9:30pm (breakfast until 10:30am); Saturday, 7:30am-9:30pm (breakfast until 11:30am)

After years of working for successful restaurant chain outfits, Chuck and Camille Goodman decided to strike out on their own, and Texas Star Kitchen was born. The Southwestern takeout cafe has been building up a loyal following in the lake area for 11 months now. While there's no seating, and all the food is ordered and picked up in a convenient drive-through lane, Texas Star is no ordinary fast-food joint. The Goodmans and their staff prepare everything fresh to order; hand-breaded chicken-fried steaks, fresh-baked biscuits, mashed potatoes and creamy gravy, the works. The menu is simple and affordable, based on the idea that busy folks would like to be able to pick up a good meal on the way to work, to the lake, or on the way home at dinnertime. The Ranch Hand Breakfast Biscuit ($1.89) is a tasty piece of hand-breaded pork loin on a fresh biscuit, guaranteed to stick to your ribs until lunchtime. Of the several burgers listed, we particularly liked the Trailhead ($2.89), with chili, cheese, and onions, and were tempted by the Blue Bacon ($2.99), with bacon, lettuce, and bleu cheese dressing. There are also sandwich and salad choices, plus desserts and refreshing shaved ice in cones. The appealing Tortilla Soup ($2.09 small, $3.29 large) is also available by the quart or the gallon if you've got to feed a crowd. In fact, if your crowd likes good, simple Southwestern cooking, you'll never need to pack another lake-day picnic now that you can call ahead to the Texas Star.

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