Elsi's

Photo By John Anderson

Elsi's

Mon-Thu, 7am-4pm; Fri-Sat, 7am-9pm; Sun, 8am-4pm

I am certain that I am not the first person to remark on the explosion of new restaurants in Austin. It's hard not to notice that at every street corner, in almost every abandoned downtown warehouse, there's a new establishment catering to monied flavor addicts. Like reality TV shows, restaurants seem to have tapped into some primal urge for unmediated, visceral entertainment. But it's nice to know that the recent restaurant boom in Austin is not confined solely to establishments of the MasterCard and white tablecloth variety. In fact, small eateries are springing up with equal vigor, nurtured on the fertile bed of a good economy and a voracious dining public. It takes a little more effort to locate them, though, because these places are not taking root in showy downtown development projects, but are quietly blooming in aging strip malls and out-of-the-way storefronts. I recently discovered Elsi's in just such a location. Situated across the street from the new Phoenicia bakery on Burnet, this little restaurant is easy to miss if you've already reached cruising speed. Their sign advertises Salvadoran and Mexican cuisine, and since I'm unable to resist good Salvadoran food, I popped in for a few pupusas. In fact, their menu is mainly Mexican, supplemented lightly by a few Salvadoran dishes that appear on their daily specials list. Although Elsi's owners are Salvadoran, they wanted to develop a menu that everyone could relate to, so they added a number of Mexican favorites to please less-adventurous eaters.

I was surprised when I entered the restaurant. It seems so recently put together, so out of the way, that I expected it to be empty. However, on both occasions I visited, it was packed with neighborhood people who've already become regulars. And although I was initially disappointed that Elsi's wasn't more Salvadoran, their Mexican dishes are nevertheless delightfully satisfying. Made from the recipes of Elsa Padilla, who was a chef at Las Manitas for almost 14 years, the cuisine at Elsi's rises above the humdrum roster of standards. Slightly offbeat flavors season traditional dishes that might otherwise seem redundant among the hundreds of places serving the same ol' tired plate of tortillas, rice, and beans. For instance, pineapple accents Elsi's Veracruzano version of carne al pastor ($6.25) with a delicious sweet and sour flavor. Or an unusual spinach salsa crowns an enchilada stuffed with shrimp and carrots ($4.75). The dark chocolate mole is made from scratch, and their three varieties of beans -- black, refried, or charro -- tingle the tongue with slow simmered flavor. Among their daily Salvadoran specials Elsi's offers fragrant, spongy banana leaf tamales on Saturdays ($5) and chile rellenos filled with tender, spiced pork on Thursdays ($5.25). Their Tuesday special features the Salvadoran national dish, pupusas and cortida -- masa gorditas filled with spiced pork or cheese, paired with a spicy vinegar cabbage slaw ($4.75). I've tasted lighter pupusas, but Elsi's rendition has real integrity. In fact, you won't find artificial, yellow cheese-enhanced food here. The kitchen's adept cuisine has a fresh, wholesome taste that belies a strong commitment to old-fashioned cookery. This is one of the few Central American food joints I know where the portions just may be smaller than your appetite. But perhaps that is because the food is genuinely good, without being burdened by extra grease; it's hard not to inhale every bite. For those who dare to wander off the downtown beat, this newcomer to the Austin dining scene will reward intrepid eaters on the prowl for foods that are both flavorful and inexpensive.