Weekend Repast

Java Noodles

Sunday Brunch, noon-3pm

Java dishes up their version of the Indonesian rijstaffel, or "rice table," every Sunday from noon to 3pm. The owner-chefs hail from the island of Java in the Indonesian archipelago and produce food as authentically flavored as that found on the islands half a world away. And they do it here in Austin, scant blocks east of I-35.

It's an all-you-can-eat buffet that features a fairly regular selection of five repeating entrées and three that rotate with the whims of the owners, coupled with whatever is in season. The crowds can swarm occasionally, especially when the University of Texas Indonesian student contingent materializes en masse. But the wait is normally brief, and the people-watching is over the top.

On our last visit to Java Noodles they had their exotically spiced aromatic fried rice, their homemade egg noodles with minced chicken and veggies in spiced sauce, and the exquisite chicken satay (which disappears almost as fast as they restock it). A hint to the wise: Place yourself so you have a clear view of the buffet line when the staff emerges with a fresh batch, since they go quickly. One of our favorites is the tofu belado, which is a melange of spicy fried tofu cubes with pineapple, peppers, onion, and cucumber. The two soups are usually a spicy, sour beef and tamarind, and a hauntingly rich mixed vegetable in coconut curry.

The beef rendang is like a superlative Indonesian carne guisado, and the boneless chicken in hot red sauce melts in the mouth. The smoky eggplant in spicy sauce explodes on the tongue with layer upon layer of flavors, and the Javanese fried chicken elevates the tongue to unimagined planes. The ethereal tofu with complex curry sauce and the crispy eggrolls are fabulous, but don't mistake them for the banana-filled eggrolls -- they need the condensed sweetened milk, not the spicy sweet and sour sauce.

Take a trip to the Far Eastern Spice Islands when you need a brunch fix to prime you for Sunday night's festivities. You can travel tens of thousands of miles by going a short drive down Oltorf, and you'll be glad you did.