Potluck at the Pedernales

Gourges (Cheese Puffs)

I started making gourges in the Eighties, first doing the traditional tart version, then moving to individual puffs. I've used milk instead of butter and various ratios of butter and flour, but this version (adapted from Joel Robuchon) is the definitive one. They are my favorite remedy when guests come over unexpectedly; they can be whipped up in 10 minutes or so.

8 tbsp unsalted butter, cut into pieces

Pinch of salt

1 cup water

1 cup minus 1 tbsp flour, sifted

4 eggs, lightly beaten

3/4 cup grated Gruyere cheese

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Grease and flour two cookie sheets. In a medium saucepan combine water, butter, and salt and bring to boil over high heat, swirling occasionally to melt butter. As soon as the mixture comes to a boil, remove from heat and add flour all at once. Beat with wooden spoon until the mixture comes away from the sides of the pan. Return the pan to low heat and continue beating for one minute, to dry the dough somewhat.

Remove from heat and add the egg mixture gradually, beating continually, then add the cheese and beat in well. Transfer the dough to a large, gallon-size resealable plastic bag (or a pastry bag if you insist), cut one corner off of the bag, and pipe the dough into 11é2-inch round blobs onto prepared baking sheets. Bake 20-25 minutes until puffs are an even golden brown. Puffs should be moist and steamy in the center and crispy on the outside. Makes about 4 dozen.

Can be prepared a day or more ahead, stored at room temperature or freezer, and reheated in slow (300 degrees) oven for a few minutes to warm and crisp.

Wes Marshall's Recommended Wine: Iron Horse Brut Rosé, $31.99

Barbara likes Champagne with her Gourges, but the Gruyere demands something a little more powerful. Iron Horse uses Pinot Noir, which gives an extra liveliness to match the cheese.