Specialties of the House

Excerpt From Skewer It! 50 Recipes for Stylish Entertaining

text by Rebecca Chastenet de Géry

Put it on a pick, thread it on a stick, pierce it, wrap it, roll it -- skewer it! Playful, practical, yet sophisticated and explosively flavorful, today's skewers are a far cry from the shish kabobs that formerly starred in suburban backyards. With their endless flavor combinations, skewers speak to a new culinary generation, one that demands global tastes prepared in little time and presented in a way that excites the imagination.

Finger food takes on new meaning when skewers come into play. Almost any ingredient is fair game, and because skewered foods can be cooked on the stovetop, in the oven, or served straight from the fridge, you don't need a grill to make them. Think meat. Think seafood. Think vegetables. Think dessert. Then start mixing, matching, and spearing, and you're headed in the right direction.

One part nostalgia (remember corn dogs and roasted marshmallows?), one part cutting edge (consider Moroccan-Spiced Swordfish with Red Peppers and Lemon Drizzle), skewers breathe new life into the party scene. Presentation is more than half the equation when entertaining, and with skewers, you get great taste and good looks all wrapped into one. With minimum effort, skewers allow cuisines from around the world to converge on the same table, offering manageable mouthfuls of delicious discovery. Skewer a food that lacks luster, like crudités, boiled shrimp, or brownies, and revel in its transformation in a hip, inspired dish. Clean, clever, and undeniably sexy, skewers send the imagination soaring and invite innovation. Go ahead. Take a stab at skewering your food.

Moroccan-Spiced Swordfish with Red Peppers and Lemon Drizzle

Like the dizzying bazaars of Casablanca, this swordfish spear is awash with exotic flavors and aromas. The rich natural sugars of the red bell pepper, the astringency of the lemon, and the fiery harissa give this dish a three-dimensional balance. Most Middle Eastern specialty markets carry harissa, a hot, Moroccan blend of red chiles, onions, garlic, and spices. If you can't locate this popular condiment, paprika and a pinch of cayenne make an acceptable replacement.

1 1/2 teaspoons ground cumin

1 1/2 teaspoons ground coriander

1 teaspoon paprika

3/4 teaspoon kosher salt

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

Twenty-four 3/4-inch cubes skinless, boneless swordfish (about 12 ounces)

Lemon Drizzle:

1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice

2 teaspoons harissa, or 1/2 teaspoon paprika and a pinch of cayenne

1 teaspoon minced garlic

1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

1/4 teaspoon sugar

1/3 cup olive oil

Three 1/8-inch-thick lemon slices, each cut into 8 wedges

Twenty-four 3/4-inch squares red bell pepper

1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley for garnish (optional)

Makes 24 skewers

Soak 24 6-inch wooden skewers in water for 30 minutes and drain before using. To marinate the swordfish: Combine the cumin, coriander, paprika, kosher salt, and vegetable oil in a medium bowl. Add the fish and toss to coat until the spices are evenly distributed. Let marinate for at least 15 minutes.

Preheat a grill to medium high or the oven to 400 degrees. To make the lemon drizzle: Combine the lemon juice, harissa, garlic, kosher salt, and sugar in a small bowl. Slowly whisk in the olive oil. Set aside.

To assemble: Thread a lemon wedge, followed by a piece of swordfish and a piece of red pepper (skin side first), onto a skewer. Repeat the process until all the ingredients have been used. Place the skewers on a grill rack. Cook, uncovered, for 6 to 8 minutes, or until the fish is opaque throughout, rotating the skewers frequently. If using an oven, place the skewers on a baking sheet lined with aluminum foil in the center of the oven and bake for 5 to 7 minutes. Serve the skewers drizzled with the vinaigrette. Sprinkle with parsley, if desired.

Do-Ahead Tips: The drizzle can be made 1 day in advance and refrigerated. Serve at room temperature. The skewers can be cooked up to 1 day in advance. To reheat, place the skewers on a baking sheet lined with aluminum foil and cover with more foil. Bake in a preheated 350-degree oven for 5 minutes, or until heated through, and serve as directed.

Salami, Pepperoncini, and Jack Cheese with Lemon-Oregano Essence

This is an antipasto you can get around! Gone is the mound of meats and cheese, replaced by a manageable sword of salami and cheese punctuated by tangy pepperoncini peppers. The lemon-oregano essence dresses up this humble appetizer, turning it into a sophisticated evening opener. Asiago, Parmesan, and mozzarella di bufula are excellent alternatives to Monterey Jack.

Lemon-Oregano Essence:

1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice

1/4 teaspoon dried oregano

Pinch of kosher salt

Pinch of freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

2 ounces 2 1/2-inch diameter salami slices, each halved crosswise

Twenty-four 3/4-inch pieces pepperoncini, seeded (6 to 12 peppers)

Twenty-four 1/2-by-1-by-1/4 inch slices Jack cheese (about 4 ounces)

Makes 24 skewers

To make the essence: Combine the lemon juice, oregano, kosher salt, and pepper in a very small bowl. Using a fork, stir in the olive oil (or shake the ingredients together in a small jar.) Set aside.

To assemble: Place several halves of salami on a work surface, the straight edge closer to you. Place a piece of pepperoncini in the center of each salami slice. Top, vertically, with a piece of Jack cheese. Fold the left and right sides of the salami toward the center of the cheese and skewer with a decorative toothpick, creating a cone shape. Repeat the process until all ingredients have been used. Place the skewers on a plate and brush with the lemon-oregano essence. Transfer to a platter just before serving.

Do-Ahead Tips: The lemon-oregano essence can be prepared 1 day in advance and refrigerated. (Let sit at room temperature for at least 15 minutes before using.) The skewers can be assembled and refrigerated up to 1 day in advance. Brush with lemon essence and serve at room temperature.

Mini Ice-Cream Sandwiches with Raspberries

We prefer unsweetened cocoa powder in this recipe, but if you're a milk-chocolate lover or are preparing this for a young audience, sweetened cocoa powder may prove a safer bet. We've sold dozens of these desserts made with the classic vanilla ice-cream sandwich. But every now and then, Neapolitan ice-cream sandwiches offer an irresistible change of pace.

Cocoa powder for dusting

4 ice-cream sandwiches (5 by 2 inches)

24 fresh raspberries

Makes 24 skewers

To assemble: Sprinkle the cocoa powder liberally on a cutting board lined with waxed paper. Place an ice-cream sandwich directly on the cocoa-powder-dusted waxed paper. Using a very sharp knife, cut each ice-cream sandwich in half lengthwise, then crosswise into 10 one-inch pieces. Spear a piece of ice-cream sandwich (cookie-side first) onto each skewer. Place the skewers on a baking sheet lined with waxed or parchment paper and freeze until just ready to serve. Thread one raspberry onto each skewer and transfer to a serving platter. Serve immediately.

Do-Ahead Tips: The skewers can be assembled, covered with plastic wrap, and frozen 1 day in advance. Garnish with fresh raspberries, as directed, just before serving.

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Reprinted with permission from Chronicle Books. From Skewer It! 50 Recipes for Stylish Entertaining, by Mary Corpening Barber and Sara Corpening Whiteford with Rebecca Chastenet de Géry © 2000.