Pearl's Oyster Bar

When a restaurant advertises Louisiana Cajun and Creole cuisine served with live jazz and French Quarter cocktails, certain images spring to mind with expectations to match: quaint, colorful decor; rich and spicy food, potent drinks, and lively music. On a recent visit, ten-year Austin institution Pearl's Oyster Bar only delivered marginally. The new Pearl's, completely rebuilt and relocated since the devastating 1995 fire, is all clean, black lines, slick hard surfaces, mini-blinds and high-tech furniture. A recent dinner there felt as though we had stumbled into an office party with elaborate food and a live band.

There were many interesting items on the large menu and choices were difficult. We started with Louisiana Pan Fried Crab Cakes (2 for $6.95) which had small chunks of some starchy vegetable extender mixed with the crab, served with a "creamy mustard sauce," which was plain Zatarain's Creole mustard squirted around the plate. Our other choice, Shrimp en Brochette ($5.95) featured Gulf shrimp and a cold, unmelted chunk of Gouda cheese wrapped in partially cooked bacon, deep-fried in a heavy crust. There are several superior variations and renditions of this dish available around town, namely the Hot Kisses at City Grill and the Cajun Kisses at the Old Alligator.

Unfortunately, the entrée choices didn't fare much better. Crawfish Etouffee ($12.95) was teaming with tender mudbug tails but the dark roux was overwhelmed with too much pepper. Seafood Crepes ($11.95) were filled with plenty of shrimp and crabmeat but napped with a grainy cream sauce. The true winners of the evening were a well-prepared Shrimp Po-Boy ($6.95), a very satisfying version of the New Orleans Monday staple Red Beans and Rice ($2.50) and a Pearl's original soup called Jambalaya Gumbo ($3.95) that was chock-full of seafood and chunks of andouille sausage.

The service was pleasant, if a little confused, the night we visited. A new waiter, perhaps? Pearl's offers a happy hour buffet and a popular Sunday brunch complete with beignets and coffee. North Austin is not famous for music venues with well-stocked bars and dining rooms, and certainly Pearl's location certainly works in the restaurant/venue's favor. They continue to maintain a very loyal clientele. -- Virginia B. Wood