First Look: Fork & Vine

Chef/owner Camden Stuerzenberger loves living in North Shoal Creek, but as a veteran of downtown kitchens (Hickory Street, Bess Bistro), he lamented his neighborhood's lack of options for a quiet post-work glass of wine. Who wants to relax over drinks after a long day, only to embark on a long commute afterward?

So Stuerzenberger got to work on bridging the gap. With the help of his Hickory Street cohort Brendan Puthoff (co-owner of fast-casual Mighty Bird), and sommelier Chris Howell of the Grove, he found the perfect location on Anderson Lane. The former Casa Chapala site was completely gutted with help from architects Dick Clark + Associates (Dolce Neve Gelato, Kenichi), creating a modern, airy, and upscale – yet family friendly and accessible – neighborhood restaurant.

This team of chefs has worked together, off and on, for ten years across several kitchens – Bess and South Congress Cafe, to name a few. When Fork & Vine opened their doors in early December, Stuerzenberger and company agreed on a few important rules: They wanna 1) have fun and 2) keep things simple. "It's food and wine," quips the chef. "Fork and Vine."

Regarding its billing as an "Austin kitchen," Stuerzenberger explains: "[Austin]'s a huge melting pot. We have great wines from around the world, we want to pair them with these great flavors from around the world." He elaborates, "It's all about pairing – comfort and exploration." The staff undergoes daily food and beverage training, in addition to their extensive education prior to opening day, so patrons can expect a personalized dining experience from a knowledgeable team.

During a recent late-lunch visit, my friendly and attentive bartender, Louie, shared some of that knowledge. The breads are all made in-house, he explained, and rotating charcuterie are smoked in-house with pecan, mesquite, and oak woods. "All we need is our own garden," he half-joked. I chose an arugula salad tossed in a shallot vinaigrette, topped with a heap of delicately smoked wild mushrooms, accented with bleu cheese and pickled red onion, and garnished with pistachios and sweet grapes. The bright acidity of a dry French rosé (suggested by Louie) went well with the tangy bleu cheese of the salad.

Later, we sampled a red snapper crudo: a visually-appealing layering of fresh fish, sweet potato, grilled corn, and thinly sliced radish, sprinkled with cilantro and a crunchy tortilla-chip crumble – all bathed in a leche de tigre citrus crema. Dinner proposes sharable plates such as fried alligator, broiled oysters, and white barbecue pork ribs; entrées like roasted free-range chicken with green chorizo and mole, or Niman Ranch beef tenderloin with pickled sweet potato and hollandaise; and tempting sides of gouda mac and cheese, or goat cheese grits. The seasonal menus will see a complete turnover every 4-5 months, but also daily variations due to availability of ingredients. Desserts will change often, although a few already-established favorites have demanded permanent residency.

Enjoy the wine you're drinking with dinner? Buy a couple bottles or a case to take home – Fork & Vine's alcoholic beverage license, while it excludes liquor sales, allows for retail sales within the restaurant – a plus, considering most of the selections of this carefully curated wine list aren't available in local wine shops. An extensive array of craft beers are also offered on draught, in cans, and in bottles (with an impressive number of large formats), and for those craving their spirited standbys, the owners again encourage the "exploration" of their beverage menu, and are happy to personally come to the table and help you find something you'll like.

The design team has created distinct dining areas, each with their own vibe: a long, spacious bar; a main dining room with booths as well as high-top tables; a half-indoor, half-outdoor atrium separated by see-through, retractable garage doors that can section off a private party, if needed. And then there's the outside patio, with young vines curling their way around trellises to create a beautifully lush veranda. Eric Billig custom-made the reclaimed-wood tabletops and an elaborate (and beautiful) wood-and-steel shelving system behind the bar.

TVs are tucked in, out of the line of sight if you're sitting at the bar, so you can peek over to catch the game's score, but it doesn't detract from its fine-dining atmosphere. A three-walled tasting room is set off of the main dining room, and is available to showcase their 250 wine labels through classes, tastings, and wine flights. Last summer, months before the grand opening, pop-up wine and beer pairing dinners were held off-site (at the Rogness and Adelbert's breweries and Solara Estate Vineyards), and even more on- and off-site pairing dinners are planned in the new year. Sunday brunch debuts this week, too. Fork & Vine has a lot going on in its first month, and from what I can tell, this neighborhood is ready for it.

Fork & Vine
3010-D W. Anderson, 512/489-7000
Tue.-Thu., 11am-10pm
Fri.-Sat., 11am-11pm
Sun. Brunch, 10am-4pm
www.forkvine.com