Day Trips: Holy Smoke BBQ, Huntsville

Holy Smoke BBQ is still smoking.

Talk of the demise of the classic Huntsville barbecue shack founded in 1971 was a bit premature. Granted the barbecue joint formerly known as “New Zion Missionary Baptist Church Barbecue” or just the “Church BBQ” went through a rough patch from 2019 to 2022, but it's back and as good as ever.

The legendary eatery began when a group of men and their wives arrived on a Saturday to work at the church. The women were barbecuing their husbands’ lunch when passersby started asking if it was for sale. The next weekend, church members, led by Sister Annie Mae Ward, were back cooking and selling barbecue as a fundraiser for the church.

The sweet smell of smoke on Saturdays became a famous Huntsville tradition.

When Sister Ward passed away in 2010, other members took over. Eventually the church’s pastor, the Rev. Clinton Edison, became the reluctant pitmaster, but he had to close shop in 2019. The loss was lamented in publications around the country.

In early 2020, the pastor’s daughter Tameka Edison fired up the old smoker again as Holy Smoke BBQ, but COVID restrictions doomed the effort. When the pandemic lifted, they relit the fire to resounding support of the community.

I arrived at Holy Smoke recently late on a Saturday afternoon. Nathadus Obryant and Jerry Edison greeted me like they had been waiting for me. They were out of ribs, but still had brisket, sausage, and chicken. It was all good, but the dark red barbecue sauce was extraordinary.

Holy Smoke BBQ is south of downtown Huntsville at 2601 Montgomery Rd. near the intersection with Sam Houston Ave. The kitchen opens Thursday through Saturday from 11am to 6pm. Parking is a little tricky, but there’s a large lot on the opposite side of the church. Give them a call at 936/439-4204.

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