The dictionary tells us that "louche" is "disreputable or sordid in a rakish or appealing way." If that's you at all, then you'll feel right at home among the comfortably decaying elegance and global miscellany of drinks and edibles in this East Sixth spot inspired by London's notorious opium den of times gone by. Bonus: New chef Jacqueline Agans has revamped the joint's somewhat scattershot menu, and, oh, the gyoza are like little bundles of heaven.
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