In this time of fiscal belt-tightening, you can feel both your belt and your wallet loosening as you step into the expansive room lined with a huge bar, a Tardis taking you to the 19th century. Here, there's absinthe. Lots of it, since it was relegalized in 2007. The ritual is the same as ever: the glass with the bulging stem, the slotted spoon, the sugar cube, the drip of ice water from the ornate urn. The only thing missing is the thujone, but it's easy to make up for that with endorphins from the luxe entrées that include duck, lamb, and beef. If you don't feel up to working your way through all the varieties of absinthe tonight, the smartly turned out and helpful bar staff can also make traditional cocktails with your liquor of choice, from Blood and Sand to French 75. Time to party like it's 1889.
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