Sit in the main room at a tall communal table and enjoy myriad small plates. Standouts include the blistered green beans and brussels sprouts tossed with house peanut butter, golden raisins, sambal, and lemon.
The barbacoa is top notch, while the picadillo is mind-numbingly good, made from minced – not ground – beef. What sucked us in originally was the promise of chivo (goat barbacoa), which melts in your mouth with intensely good flavor and isn't too gamey. The carne guisada is tender and smothered in a rich, beefy, comino-kissed sauce, while the pork carnitas are tender and unctuous. When it all settles out, La Fruta has vaulted into rarified territory as one of the best taquerias in town.