Day Trips

by Gerald E. McLeod

Choo-choo-cha-boogie in the East Texas forest photograph by Gerald E. McLeod

The Texas State Railroad lumbers through the deep forest between Rusk and Palestine like a noisy and colorful caterpillar. The full passenger cars rock and creak behind the engine belching steam clouds. It's a 50-mile round trip that is both exciting and relaxing.

For fortysomething Carol Grubbs of Fort Worth, it was her first time to ever ride a train of any kind. She and her son enjoyed the breeze as they stuck their heads out the open door of the baggage car. "This is so much fun," she said, as giddy as a schoolgirl. "I'm going to have to do this again."

Among the last remaining opportunities around the country to experience the thrill of riding a train, TSRR is unique among excursions. Since July 4, 1976, the iron horses have pulled passengers through the heavily wooded Neches River Valley. The railroad bridge at the halfway point on the
journey is the longest over the river.

As a state historical park run by the Texas Parks and Wildlife Department, the railroad provides a view of the history of steam locomotion. The switching line gives passengers a rare view of two historic trains passing. There also is a working turntable on the route where trains are turned around and two vintage railroad stations that make either end of the journey special.

Before the train line became a popular Texas attraction and education center, the railroad was a work horse in the I.D. Fairchild State Forest. With more than 106 years of history, the route has seen its fortunes rise and fall.

The original 32 miles of track took 16 years to finish using convict labor from the Texas State Penitentiary at Rusk. In the late 1800s, the area was thought to hold iron ore deposits in commercial quantities. For 22 years the smelter at the penitentiary provided the state's need for cast iron. Included among the products made by the inmates were the dome of the state Capitol and the fence around the grounds.

For the next 40 years the little train operation was leased by the state to Southern Pacific Railroad. Timber and tomatoes made up the bulk of the cargo after passenger service was suspended in 1956. By the 1960s, no railroad was interested in leasing a short-haul spur with 25 miles of rotting ties, worn track, and 29 bridges decaying in the soggy wetlands.

In 1972, the state legislature conveyed ownership of the railroad over to the state parks commission. Initial plans called for removal of the track and converting the road bed into a hike-and-bike trail. Rail enthusiasts and historians convinced the commission to change their minds about abandoning the line.

Once again the state convicts were called to make the line usable. Over the last 23 years the state employees of the railroad have built a self-contained enterprise that attracts rail-oriented enthusiasts of all ages. The trains have appeared in more than a dozen movies, commercials, and television shows. The rolling stock includes five steam engines, four diesel engines, and several passenger coaches.

The passenger cars vary in age, but all reflect the Golden Age of railroading. Painted a bright red with yellow trim, the cars also vary in comforts. Nine former suburban commuter cars offer windows that open and close. The open-air cars have large windows that are closed only by plastic shades that are unrolled in the most inclement weather.

The train gently rocks through the thick East Texas forest named for the state senator who convinced lawmakers not to abandon the tracks in 1921. The cooling breeze increases as the caravan of red passenger cars crosses the chocolate-colored waters of the Neches River or a creek red with the rust of the ore buried under the forest floor. On the first half of the trip, passengers young and old keep careful watch out the windows for ponds of lily pads, bright flowers, or maybe a wild animal hiding in the woods.

TSRR runs an excursion schedule between March and November. The trains operate on weekends during the spring and fall and Thursday through Sunday in June and July. The trip takes four hours, which includes a one-hour stopover at the opposite station. Although there is a snack bar at both stations and on the train, ice chests are allowed on the train. The baggage cars are often filled with bicycles from riders who race the train back to the originating station.

The parks at both ends of the line offer picnicking and camping facilities and there are hotel accommodations in both towns. The camping area at the Rusk end is much bigger and nicer than the other end, with a small lake and hookups. Palestine, being larger than Rusk, generally has more to offer. For more information on the area, contact the Palestine Convention and Visitors Bureau at 800/659-3484.

Throughout the season the park offers special excursions, such as starlight and murder mystery trips. All trains and stations are ADA accessible. Trains leave the depots promptly at 11am and return at 3pm. For more information and to make the required reservations on TSRR, call 800/442-8951 or http://www.twpd.state.tx.us/park/railroad/railroad.htm.

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Coming up this weekend ...

Great Texas Train Race pits bicyclists of all skill levels against the steam power of the Texas State Railroad, May 8. 903/597-8800.

Texas 100 Invitational Art Show in Salado's Pace Park features some of Texas' best artists showing traditional and contemporary works in a variety of media, May 8-9. 254/947-5040.

Cowboy Songs and Poetry brings the story of the Old West to the LBJ National Park in Johnson City, May 8. 830/644-2241.

Mother's Day Luncheon at Messina Hof Wine Cellars begins with a tour of the vineyards and ends with a gourmet meal, May 9. 409/778-9463.

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Coming up ...

Cherokee Rose Festival in Gilmer celebrates spring and the area's rich history, May 15.
903/843-2413.

Springtime Festival/ Magnolia Homes Tour in Columbus includes an arts & crafts show, theatre in the 1886 opera house, and a tour of historical homes, May 14-16. 409/732-2917.

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