WINTER CALLS AND IT'S ASKING FOR SYRAH

I realized last fall that, like a chipmunk, I was stocking up for winter. Nuts, however, were not the object of my hoarding. For months, the spicy, sensual fruitiness of Syrah has captured my attention.

Syrah, or Shiraz as it's called in Australia and by some California wineries, is the stuff that winter evenings are made of. I have warm memories of a Syrah tasting that we had at The Salt Lick Restaurant, south of Austin along the seemingly never-ending FM 1826 (if you reach the T in the road, as I have moronically done on numerous occasions, you've gone too far). With its bustling country quaintness, rich barbecue, long wooden picnic tables, and "bring your own alcohol" policy, the Salt Lick is a perfect place to share a bottle of hearty Syrah.

In a rustic corner, we tasted a smorgasbord of Syrah-based wines from California, Australia, and France while awaiting the substantial platters of tender sausage, brisket, and ribs. All made from the black Syrah grape, the wines varied greatly, from a ripe and easy-drinking Australian 1996 Rosemount Shiraz to an elegant, violet-scented 1996 J. L. Chave Saint Joseph, a wine labeled in the French tradition -- bearing the name of the wine region instead of the grape. The match between food and wine was outstanding, with a 1995 Hamel Syrah giving the best complement to the oak-and-pecan-shell-fired meats and oddly sweet sauce.

For the warm, comforting flavors and aromas of Syrah, however, most wine writers and chefs propose a food match of lamb. Chicago chef Charlie Trotter is no exception, adding lamb and Cote Rotie -- a spicy, highly perfumed Syrah from the Northern Rhone Valley in southeastern France -- to his "Top Ten Classic Food and Wine Pairings" list in Gourmet Cooking for Dummies (a great addition to any aspiring chef's library).

Lamb, however, can be expensive for a nice cut, and not everyone is accustomed to cooking it. For a relatively inexpensive meal, try seasoning a sirloin steak with salt and lots of freshly cracked black pepper, then pairing it with a good, inexpensive California Syrah such as 1996 McDowell Syrah ($10) with its rich, complex flavors and supple tannins. Or follow the suggestions of wine writer Hugh Johnson, who matches Australian Shiraz with roasted vegetables, wild duck, couscous with spiced vegetables, T-bone steak, and beef stew.

If you want to go all out without all the work, a simple Tuscan lamb recipe is close at hand. I tried this recipe with a smoky, peppery 1996 Cline Carneros Syrah ($16) to good effect. You may also want to try matching the lamb with the spicy, dark-berry flavors of 1996 d'Arenberg "The Footbolt" Shiraz ($14) or the peppery, port-like aromas of 1996 Peter Lehmann The Barossa Shiraz ($11). Or you can go all out and buy loin chops and get an upper-end Syrah. The Austin Wine Merchant downtown carries an assortment of Australian and Northern Rhone wines, including a smooth and balanced 1995 Yarra Yering Underhill Shiraz ($40) and an intense and meaty 1995 Cornas by Marcel Juge ($25). Or, if you're out near the town of Bee Cave, try the wine department at the new HEB (12400 W Hwy71), which carries a remarkable 1996 Dominio de Valdepusa Syrah by Spanish producer Marques de Grinon ($23) with a lush blueberry character. Then top off your scrumptious winter treat with herbed black olive and roasted garlic mashed potatoes as a side. -- Anthony King

Pan-fried Rosemary-Garlic Lamb Chops for Two

2 tsp minced garlic

1/2 Tbs chopped fresh rosemary

1/3 tsp crushed red pepper

6 small lamb rib chops

1 Tbs olive oil

Combine garlic, rosemary, and red pepper in a small bowl. Spread mixture evenly over both sides of chops and season with salt. Refrigerate for 30 minutes to four hours.

Heat oil in a skillet over medium heat, making sure that it does not begin smoking before adding the chops. Lay chops in skillet and cook to desired doneness -- three minutes per side for medium-rare thin chops. Transfer chops to plate and garnish with fresh rosemary.