El Mercado
It's All in the Latitude
Reviewed by Barbara Chisholm, Fri., March 10, 2000
El Mercado
1302 S. First, 447-7445Sun-Thu, 9am-10pm; Fri-Sat, 9am-11pm
This is the place to meet a bunch of folks where the whole lot of you can find something to satisfy. The menu is an extensive, five-page, Tex-Mex textbook: lots of enchiladas, fajitas, chimichangas, burritos, the works. Vegetarians are accommodated with a respectable selection of entrees including a delicious fresh spinach and mushroom enchilada ($6.75 for two, $7.75 for three). The spinach is raw; only the heat of the mushrooms and tortillas wilt the leaves. For a bit more zip, substitute chipotle sauce for the suggested ranchero sauce. Folks who are a bit timid will find something they can point a finger to with confidence. What could be more soothing than sour cream enchiladas ($6.99/2, $7.99/3)? Or Pollo en Ajo ($8.95)?, a marinated breast of chicken sauteed with tomatoes, onion, peppers, mushrooms, spinach, and fresh garlic (the ajo in the title). And for those convinced that Mexican food spells heartburn, El Mercado serves burgers ($5.50) or grilled chicken jack sandwiches ($6.50). They aim to please those of you seeking a bit more adventure with tacos al pastor (marinated pork, $6.99), pescado frita (fish tacos for you San Diegans, $6.99) and achiote tacos de pollo (citrus-marinated chicken, $6.99).
Nothing here is going to surprise devoted diners of Mexican fare, but nothing is going to disappoint, either. Not that we condone the overindulgence of spirits, but if you find yourself in that unfortunate condition known as a hangover, there is no better cure in the world than a Mexican breakfast. It's a medical thing. El Mercado covers all the bases by offering weekend breakfasts. Migas (the Texas mess of scrambled eggs, tomatoes, onions, peppers, cheese, and tortilla strips, $4.95-5.95) are a satisfying start to a Saturday morning, not to mention huevos rancheros, and other Tex-Mex a.m. staples. The restaurant's spacious surroundings and broad menu make it a safe bet for a gathering of neophytes and veterans of the Mexican food market. There is plenty of room for the whole gang in the multiple, meandering rooms plus the covered patio and a full bar with multiple margarita options.
