Drakula
8120 Research Blvd., 374-9291
Monday-Thursday, 11am-10pm; Friday, 11am-11pm; Saturday, noon-11pm; Sunday, noon-10pm
www.drakulaaustin.com
One of the biggest controversies among Romanians during the past decade has been whether to move forward with a proposed Disney-like Dracula theme park in Transylvania. To many of that country's civic and business leaders, the proposed park potentially represents much-needed jobs and tourist dollars to help float the listing national economy. However, to people who are fearful of reinforcing negative cultural stereotypes, the near exclusive association of a legendary blood-drinking vampire with Romanian nationality is a persistent and annoying blueprint for development. Many Romanians bristle over the fact that the real-life figure Vlad the Impaler (aka Dracula) is only superficially understood outside Romania, just as its culture, customs, and cuisine are little known to most outsiders.
Now, however, Austinites have a chance to discover a few of Romania's secrets in a new restaurant aptly named Drakula. In Drakula, Silviu Soneriu and his partners have brewed together business expertise and culinary proficiency, with a dash of national pride. Drakula is a little doorway into the hidden courtyards of Romania's multifaceted cuisine. Like all countries that were nurtured in the shadow of the Ottoman Empire, Romania shares a definite culinary tradition with Turkey and the Near East. Grilled skewered meats, stuffed cabbage, layered casseroles, and garlicky bean stews are among the many dishes marked by the Ottoman stamp. But Romania has also absorbed influences from bordering Slavic countries, as well as Western Europe and the Mediterranean. At Drakula, you will find these trademarks in the form of lightly fried schnitzels, creamy polenta, mushrooms sautéed in butter, warm apple strudels, and sugar-and-jam-stuffed crepes.
If you've never tried this country's cooking (or even if you have), the Romanian sampler plate, an appetizer, is a good means to get acquainted with the flavors and spices of the cuisine. A two-person dish is enough for a whole meal, piled with feta cheese, brazen little meatballs, sliced cold summer sausage, and a creamy fish roe mousse not unlike taramasalata. The homemade pickled vegetable plate – another dish that could be an appetizer or side dish – featuring crunchy, briny pickled cucumbers, cauliflower, and tomatoes, should not be missed.
Follow the appetizers with the mititei (vernacularly pronounced meech-ee), which is practically the Romanian national dish. Similar to kefta, mititei is ground spiced beef and pork grilled on a skewer. Its seasoning varies from cook to cook, but typically involves robust shots of salt, pepper, and some mixture of spices such as paprika, cumin, caraway, or cloves. Drakula's version is exceptionally well flavored with garlic and warm spices. All main courses come with a choice of stewed white beans, mashed potatoes, mamaliga (polenta), or French fries. To accompany the mititei, I recommend the French fries, another Romanian favorite, and one that most commonly accompanies mititei.
Another item not to miss is the sarmale (traditionally served with mamaliga), paprika-spiced ground beef and pork rolled into a cabbage leaf and braised in tomato broth. Stuffed cabbage has always been one of my favorite dishes, and Drakula's adaptation is a credit to its makers: The meat all but melts on the tongue, the cabbage is soft and tender, and the savory tomato broth bears just a touch of fire.
For dessert, Drakula makes jam-filled crepes, chocolate cake, and a spiced apple pie that is not unlike a strudel. We ordered the pie, which was clearly homemade – filled with grated cinnamon apples – but was disappointingly reheated in a microwave, rendering the pastry soft and mushy. Next time, I'll remember to ask them to heat it under a salamander or in the oven. And there will be a next time, because Drakula, like Romania itself, is one of those places worth getting to know. 
