Uncle Billy's Brew & Que

Photo by John Anderson

Uncle Billy's Brew & Que

www.unclebillysaustin.com

Uncle Billy's Brew & Que is the newest addition in a series of restaurants launched by the founders of the wildly successful Austin Java. This group of restaurateurs has become a corporate consortium of sorts, and it shows: A lot of money was spent on revamping the old Mimosa/Good Eats building, the website is stylish, and marketing is clearly a priority (caps and T-shirts were ready for sale before the beer was even done brewing!). Austin diners who value authenticity (especially in barbecue) may find the calculated feel a little off-putting. Fortunately, the partners had the good sense to put local celebrity brewmaster Brian Peters in charge of the beer, and that goes a long way toward counterbalancing the slickness.

Peters is best known for his work at the beloved Bitter End, where his skill won him a loyal following. He is also a co-founder of Live Oak Brewing Co. and a champion of Old World brewing methods. When you walk into Uncle Billy's, it's immediately obvious that the focus (at least of the clientele) is on the "Brew." Every table is adorned with brimming pints, and there is a lot of unwinding going on.

The relaxing atmosphere – and the building itself – is a strong point in Uncle Billy's favor. The patio is huge, the pecan trees ancient and spreading, and everything is brand-spanking-new-clean and functional. The designers went in for a natural wood and sheet-metal motif, lending an outdoorsy feel. Many of the walls have been replaced with industrial garage doors so that on fine days the whole place can be thrown open to the breeze.

A good quarter of the building is given over to huge, gleaming copper brewing tanks, which are visible through glass from the dining room. Peters brews a variety of beers, spanning the spectrum from light to dark. "I just want to make beers that taste delicious to me, and hopefully people will agree," he says. "We used to be considered a beer town. I want to get Austin back on the brewing map or at least on its feet!"

Being a popular brewmaster is like being a celebrity chef: Devotees will follow you from one establishment to another. As word spreads that Peters is at Uncle Billy's, beer sales are increasing. "We started out selling double what we expected," Peters grins, "and it's been great ever since."

Styles of beer rotate in and out, following Peters' inclinations. I purchased the sampler of house-made brews for $7. The Haystack Hefeweizen, served with a wedge of either lemon or orange, is light-bodied and refreshing and is a great choice for cooling off on a blistering Texas day. The Back 40 Blonde Ale is easy drinking and flavorful. Uncle Billy's Amber, made with organic fall hops, is a much deeper golden hue than the Blonde, with the faintest touch of bitter. It is lively on the tongue at the start, almost fizzy, and smooth and smoky going down. The Ax Handle Pale Ale has a flowery citrus essence, less bitter than the Amber, with notes of jasmine. The IPA is noticeably more complex than the other ales: perfectly balanced with a lot of depth, unusually "hoppy" and slightly bitter with a long finish. It is a wonderful testament to Peters' art.

The food, while clearly not an afterthought, does play second fiddle, in part because the menu is fairly limited. The barbecue is served "family-style," on wax paper by the half-pound, with sides extra. Barbecue is a perfect foil for beer, and while the kitchen hasn't yet achieved the "consistently orgasmic" description, every kind I sampled (and of course I sampled every kind!) was perfectly respectable: brisket ($6.49), baby back ribs ($8.49), chicken ($5.99), sausage ($3.49), jalapeño-cheese sausage ($3.49), pulled pork ($5.99), and chopped beef ($5.99). The virtue that unites them is that none is at all greasy. The uniting flaw is that none is smoked to the point of falling off the bone or, in the case of the brisket, falling apart. It may be that the barbecue is selling faster than they can make it or that they just need to give it more time in the pit. The two sauces provided, regular and habanero, are more Southeastern than Southwestern: vinegary, sweet and spicy, and on the thin side.

The sides, which include green beans, mashed potatoes, mac 'n' cheese, cooked carrots, and creamed corn in addition to the de rigueur beans, coleslaw, and potato salad, are $2.25 for a small and $3.75 for a large. All are prepared with skill and clearly made from scratch; the green beans fresh and green, the mashed potatoes skin-on and chunky, and the coleslaw crisp.

There are also a few "bar food" snack items: queso ($4.99), quesadillas ($7.99), chicken wings (six for $5.99, 12 for $10.99), and fried pickles ($4.99), as well as barbecue "sliders" (tiny barbecue sandwiches, four for $5.99). The standout is the fried pickles (a Southeastern specialty), which I heartily endorse.

Barbecue by the half-pound is awkward when you are dining alone, so Uncle Billy's has added barbecue plates to the lunch menu and might be adding them to the dinner menu soon. Beer is available for takeout purchase in both "growlers" (half-gallon jugs) and kegs.