Dining Beyond the Chains

Good food moves to the 'burbs

The Hollow

708 S. Austin Ave., Georgetown, 512/868-3300
Lunch: Tue.-Sat., 11am-2pm; Sun., 10am-2pm; dinner: Tue.-Thu., 5-9:30pm; Fri.-Sat., 5-10:30pm
www.facebook.com/thehollowtx

This incongruous little spot plants the flag for modern Franco-American cuisine in the heart of an old-fashioned Texas town square. Just a little over a year old, the Hollow pairs white tablecloth dining with a cheeky insouciance that manifests itself in menu descriptors like "floofy pancakes" ($10), "John Cou­gar Mellenpork" ($26), and dishes containing "pickled things" and "love and roquettes." They can get away with the cutesy ethos because chef Jacob Hilbert is nailing it on the execution. On a recent brunch visit, we were very impressed by the cured gravlax with crab cake ($14), the seared scallops atop decadent, creamy polenta ($16), and the mussels and cream "liaisoned" with eggs and fresh herbs ($13). The service was polite, professional, and nonintrusive, and the space married elegance with small-town shabby chic – no small aesthetic feat. This little upstart brasserie is definitely worth the 30-minute drive north.

READ MORE
More by Melanie Haupt
The Difficulties of Dining With Kids
The Difficulties of Dining With Kids
Is the restaurant industry making a bad situation worse?

March 3, 2017

How Austin Restaurants Are Leading the Trump Era Resistance
How Austin Restaurants Are Leading the Trump Era Resistance
Economically culture-jamming the new administration

Feb. 10, 2017

MORE IN THE ARCHIVES
NEWSLETTERS
AC Daily, Events and Promotions, Luvdoc Answers

Breaking news, recommended events, and more

Official Chronicle events, promotions, and giveaways

Updates for SXSW 2017

All questions answered (satisfaction not guaranteed)