It's midway through January, which means you can walk back those New Year's resolutions with impunity. Cancel the monthly payment on that shiny new gym membership and reinstate sugar into your diet posthaste, because there are some damn fine treats to be had in this town, and Angel Donuts & Treats has upped the ante on indulgence.
Open since late summer, Angel Donuts is a family affair, started by two UT-alum brothers and their spouses (one of whom, Angela, is a friendly, patient presence behind the counter) who decided to turn their baking hobby into a legitimate business. Located in the burgeoning Trails shopping center on 620, Angel Donuts offers a sweet, locally owned counterpoint to the cluster of fast-food chains populating the immediate area.
While the shop's title suggests that the showcase sweet here is doughnuts, apart from a serviceable glazed old-fashioned (85 cents) that is appropriately crisp and light, and a maple bacon donut ($1.75 and undoubtedly an homage to Portland's iconic Voodoo Doughnut) that effectively balances those very strong flavors, the real winners here are the cake balls ($2.25 each). The display case is a dizzying array of simply but elegantly decorated globes in flavors both traditional (chocolate, red velvet, carrot) and adventurous (chai, s'mores, chocolate orange). My personal favorite is the chai, subtly spiced and not too sweet, the vanilla coverture cracking pleasantly when bitten. The s'mores cake ball, while described as containing marshmallow fluff and graham crackers, betrayed no trace of those ingredients, suggesting that the balls might have been overmixed (but no less tasty). In addition to doughnuts and cake balls, the menu also features cinnamon rolls, apple fritters, kolaches, coffee, and bubble tea.
It's clear that the proprietors of Angel Donuts & Treats want their shop to be a destination for folks to hang out and socialize or study. Situated across the street from Concordia University, the space is populated with sleek tables for individual or group study sessions, and comfortable seating for more casual visits; Concordia students, faculty, and staff can get a 10% discount with their school IDs. Since the road to hell is paved with good intentions, thank goodness places like Angel Donuts are around to keep us on the highway to heaven.
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