Culinary Dream Team
Texas authors headline the book fest Cooking Tent
By MM Pack, Fri., Oct. 26, 2012
Planet Taco: A Global History of Mexican Food
by Jeffrey M. Pilcher Oxford University Press, 320 pp., $27.95In 1994, a film crew came to my unreconstructed farmhouse kitchen in Austin to make a TV commercial; in it, a cute blonde woman wearing tiny cutoffs joyfully prepared Mexican dishes for a party. However, the commercial was for Swedish television, and the food products – stiff taco shells, salsa, guacamole dip – were manufactured and marketed in Sweden. It was an interesting day, and my first clue that Mexican food had conquered the world.
In Planet Taco, Jeffrey Pilcher tackles the Herculean task of explaining how this phenomenon happened over time and what it has meant for Mexico and Mexicans (as well as for the rest of us). It's a complicated story and, as he says, "The history of tacos, like eating tacos, is a messy business."
Pilcher, professor of history at the University of Minnesota and author of ¡Que vivan los tamales!, has spent his career parsing the meaning of food and "authenticity" in Mexican culture. Here, he begins with the premise that Mexican cuisine was globalized from the time of the 16th century conquest, and that the outward-bound trajectories of Mesoamerican crops – corn, chiles, and chocolate – to Europe and beyond set the pattern for the later global embrace of Mexican food, particularly tacos.
This is no quick read for foodie fanatics who just love them some tacos; it's a dense study of food in culture that requires concentration to follow tacos from their Mexican origins to the Southwest borderlands to Americanization, industrialization, and finally, global production and marketing. From the 19th century streets of Mexico to the fusion-taco trucks of the millennium, Pilcher demonstrates "how the pursuit of culinary authenticity is embedded within complicated relations of race and class." For those willing to sign on for the ride, it's a fascinating gold mine of information – thoughtfully explained, usefully organized, and thoroughly documented. Eating a taco is eating history, indeed.
Jeffrey Pilcher discusses taco politics with Taco USA author Gustavo Arellano in the Lone Star Tent from 2-3pm on Sunday.
FOLLOWUS
READMORE
FOOD ARCHIVES »
TODAY’S EVENTS
Kylesa, Blood Ceremony
at Mohawk
O. Henry Pun-Off at O. Henry Museum
Final Cut: Ladies and Gentlemen at Alamo Drafthouse at the Ritz
MORE RECOMMENDED EVENTS »
MUSIC | FILM | ARTS | COMMUNITY
THELATEST
Finding Rail Route Complicated Michael King, in “The Reading Railroad”, while making valuable points, seems to state that finding an initial route for urban ...
Problems Facing Mueller Neighborhood leaders and members past and present of the city of Austin's Robert Mueller Advisory Commission (RMAC) deserve credit for ...
People Are the Real Mueller Story Through various media, we are subjected to stories of Mueller: the construction project. While that can be appreciated, Mueller's true ...
Keeping Austin Weird Things that keep Austin weird: 1) belief that one needs a train to get from UT to the state Capitol; ...
More Women on the Cover, Please How about putting a woman on the cover once in a while? The last eight issues have all featured men ...
MORE LETTERS TO THE EDITOR »
- Follow us@AustinChronicle
- Copyright © 1981-2013 Austin Chronicle Corp. All rights reserved.
- |
- Contact
- |
- Privacy Policy
- |
- Advertise With Us






