Indian Explosion

Maharaja Indian Cafe

8650 Spicewood Springs Rd., 249-9122
Tue.-Sun., 11am-3pm, 5-9pm
www.apnabazaaraustin.com/maharaja.html

In a city teeming with several dozen Indian restaurants, it can be hard to stand out. It doesn't help to be tucked away in the corner of a shopping center that's already anchored by two highly regarded diners (Asia Cafe and Chen's Noodle House). So how has Maharaja Indian Cafe managed to shine in the shadow of its neighbors? With grace, good food, and a few unique specialties.

Warm and friendly owners Gozito and Ther­esa George hail from Goa, a tiny but wealthy state in India's coastal southwest. Their former home on the Arabian Sea provided the foundation for an appreciation for seafood done right. Goan Fish Curry (tilapia filets topped with a mild coconut cream based gravy) and Stuffed Indian Pomfret (a crispy whole fried fish split along the belly and "stuffed" with a layer of rich dry spices) are both clearly points of pride for them, the latter issuing loud echoes from Goa's past as a Portuguese colony.

Though their home state lies below Mumbai, the menu here is decidedly filled with more North Indian fare than anything else. Naan, delicious curried okra, sweet and tart chickpea-filled panipuri, and an outstanding spicy saag paneer are all featured on the well-stocked daily lunch buffet. Those seeking even more heat and yet another unique dish should try the sometimes-off-menu goat pepper fry, spiked with tender sauteed curry leaves. Wrap up your meal with a freshly blended lassi – for a special treat, order both a salt lassi and a sweet lassi, divide them among your dinner companions, and alternate between the two for a bright and lush surprise. Then walk a few doors down to Apna Bazaar; the Indian, Pakistani, and Bangla­deshi grocery store, also owned by the George duo, is a great source for some hard-to-find ingredients and spices at bargain prices.