Tenuta Sant'Antonio Monti Garbi Valpolicella Superiore Ripasso
The Castagnedi brothers have made tremendous progress in a country where the top wineries measure their tenure in centuries, not decades
Reviewed by Wes Marshall, Fri., April 23, 2010
Tenuta Sant'Antonio Monti Garbi Valpolicella Superiore Ripasso
About two decades ago, the four Castagnedi brothers – Tiziano, Armando, Paolo, and Massimo – decided that they no longer wanted to tend their father's vineyards. They wanted to create a new, modern, and world-class winery that would bring pride to their little corner of the Veneto. They named their winery Tenuta Sant'Antonio and set out to make Amarone, Valpolicella, Ripasso, Passito, Soave, and Recioto di Soave wines, all from grapes grown on their mountaintop vineyards in Val d'Illasi and Valpolicella. They've made tremendous progress in a country where the top wineries measure their tenure in centuries, not decades.
While all of their wines have something to recommend, it's the Tenuta Sant'Antonio Valpolicella Superiore Ripasso called "Monti Garbi" (varies between $16 and $20) that is the perfect juxtaposition of price and quality. It's a blend of 70% Corvina, 20% Rondinella, and 10% mixed Croatina and Oseleta.
As you might notice, none of these grapes' names rolls trippingly off the tongue, which is one of the reasons that this wine, which should rightfully cost about $35, doesn't. These wines are made by allowing the young Valpolicella wine to rest on some of the prior year's remnants from their $100+ wines, which lends the Ripasso greater texture and more powerful flavors. Imagine aromas of red berries and pipe tobacco along with cleansing acidity, and you'll have a pretty good idea of what to expect. Pour a glass for your friends, and they'll swear you spent twice as much as you actually did.
"Monti Garbi" is available either in stock or by order at all the best wine shops in town and at a few very smart restaurants.