Taverna

Tagliata di Tonno (Photo By John Anderson)

Taverna

258 W. Second, 477-1001

Monday-Thursday, 11am-11pm; Friday-Saturday, 11am-midnight; Sunday, 11am-10pm

At the corner of Second and Lavaca, Taverna is the newest eatery to grace the latest "hippest-spot-in-town" and the current see-and-be-seen Downtown dining scene. With its sidewalk tables full of diners engaged in lively conversation, Taverna has become a very popular destination at all hours of the day. With some exceptions, the food is good, although the menu is somewhat predictable and the atmosphere cannot quite shake its chain-restaurant feel.

Our first experience was at lunchtime, when it was obviously very crowded and parking was a problem, since valet service is offered only at dinner. The Poached Salmon Salad ($10), with strawberry slices, roasted walnuts, and raspberry vinaigrette; as well as the Taverna Chopped Salad ($12), with grilled chicken, avocado, tomato, bacon, gorgonzola, and a tangy lemon dressing, were fresh and plentiful. A thin-crust Pizza al Prosciutto ($9), with mozzarella, shaved parmesan, and arugula sounded promising, but we found the toppings lacking. The arugula was placed on top uncooked, so it kept falling off, and the crust was not quite crisp. The Risotto Special ($14.50), with roast leg of lamb, shaved parmesan, caramelized shallots, and balsamic reduction was delicious, but the portion was small and included only a few shreds of meat.

We returned a second time for dinner. The inside dining room is small, and the tables are crammed so close together that it creates a very loud atmosphere, making intimate conversation impossible. The small bar looked cozy and inviting for a drink and an appetizer before dinner, but we were told either to get a table then or experience a wait of 11Ú2 hours. They do not serve dinner at the bar, so we opted to seat then. We were quickly whisked to an outside table, where we waited a considerable amount of time before anyone came to acknowledge us. Once our waiter came, however, he was friendly and efficient.

Dinner begins with a crisp rosemary focaccia with a small ramekin of olive oil and balsamic vinegar. As an appetizer, we tried a well-presented Beef Carpaccio ($9) with shaved parmesan, olive oil, and capers. The entrées were quite good. The handmade Spinach Gnocchi With Bolognese Sauce ($13), light and fluffy pillows in meaty and well-seasoned sauce with the right amount of garlic and tomato, were heavenly. The Lamb Special ($20.95) was served with a wine reduction, soft polenta, and roasted mixed vegetables, and was flavorful and satisfying.

For dessert, we tried the Cheese Plate ($12), served with dried figs and a ramekin of honey on the side. One can choose any combination of three out of five available cheeses or pick just one for $7. This light dessert went very well with our waiter's suggestion of Graham's 20-year port ($11). He also suggested the Balsamic Ice Cream With Sautéed Strawberries ($6), which he explained was made with Häagen-Dazs vanilla ice cream mixed with a homemade balsamic reduction. It was delicious.

On our latest visit, we enjoyed brunch on a sunny and breezy Saturday afternoon. The Frittata Special ($10), with fresh spinach, Italian sausage, and fontina cheese was fluffy and savory, and the Fried Eggs al Forno ($11) served over toasted bread and drizzled with truffle oil were accompanied by plump links of sausage and crisp bacon. Both dishes came with fresh home fries seasoned with rosemary and bacon. Bottomless mimosas are servedfor $10.

Overall, I found that while the food is fine at Taverna, the prices are rather high for the amount of food served, while the atmosphere of the tightly packed dining room does not allow for a lingering dinner. But on a sunny afternoon sipping wine at one of their sidewalk tables, you might just feel transported far away from Downtown Austin.