More Steak, Please

A few additions to our roundup

Reed's Jazz and Supper Club

9901 Capital of TX Hwy N. #150, 342-7977

Monday-Thursday. 5:30-10pm

Friday-Saturday, 5:30-11pm

In romantic movies of the Forties, beautiful dames glide into clubs filled with music, fine food, wine, and flattering lighting on the arm of some swell guy. They gaze across the table at one another, or discreetly pick up their table phone and send a drink or message to someone they admire across the dance floor. This scene isn't exactly played out at Reed's, but it's close. Beautiful people abound, a swirling staircase makes almost every descent a glide, live jazz music fills the air, and fine food and wine are served up. But this is Austin, not Hollywood, so jackets are not required and the only phones in sight are of the cell variety. Still, for old-school glamour, it's hard to top. The steaks are serious, too, and utterly delicious. These are steaks for nights you get that raise, close that deal, pop that question. The Bone-In Ribeye ($29) came to the table so hot, I could feel the heat rising up to meet my face. Wisely, I opted for the bernaise sauce (hollandaise and green pepper/brandy are other options for $3) on the side as the fantastic flavor of the beef was not in need of gilding. The Steak Mushrooms ($5) were almost as meaty as the main attraction and the Au Gratin Spuds ($6) Êwere top-notch. Only the Creamed Spinach ($6) disappointed, with a somewhat bitter aftertaste. The wine list offers lots of wonderful choices by the glass, and we were steered to a lovely selection by our knowledgeable but overly friendly waiter. It's chinks like this in Reed's veneer that serve to remind that while all the physical pieces are in place to invoke bygone days of glamour, underneath it all it's elegance Austin-style, which is almost an oxymoron.

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