Liquid Assets

---

The Wines of Jerez

There's a little bit of anxiety in southern Spain right now. It started years ago, when the only alcohol a proper lady could drink was sherry. ("Sherry" was the term the English attached to the wines of Jerez, apparently since Jerez was too hard for the Brits to pronounce.) After years of being toddled by little old ladies, sherry is indelibly associated with the elder generation. So the problem is this: The elder audience is dying off, and younger people have little interest in sherry. That's a shame, because some of the world's most fascinating wines are coming from the area around Jerez de la Frontera, and they are being sold at bargain-basement prices in light of their quality.

There's one other problem: Sherries come in a mind-boggling assortment. Major producers can have dozens of different sherries in their portfolio – but it's not as complicated as it might seem. There are three major designations of sherry: Fino, Amontillado, and Oloroso. Finos are the youngest and lightest, running about 15% alcohol. They should be drunk cold and with food, substituting for a Chardonnay or a Sauvignon Blanc. Amontillados have an amber-to-gold color and a complex, nutty aroma. They are sometimes blended with a sweet grape, the Pedro Ximenez, to add a little richness; they run about 20% alcohol. The majority of Amontillados will be nicely dry and ready for pairing with meats and cheeses. (A note to whiskey drinkers – some of the flavor you love so much comes from the fact that the Scots and Irish use old sherry barrels for aging, so an Amontillado might be right up your alley.) Olorosos are deeply colored, intensely aromatic, and, again, sometimes have a little Pedro Ximenez added.

I recently had an opportunity to taste through more than 100 sherries, and I have a few specific recommendations for you. In the Fino category, the most famous brand is Tio Pepe ($13.99), a delicious drink if you can find a fresh, young bottle. My favorite in the category is Domecq's La Ina ($13.99), a more subtle wine that goes beautifully with shrimp, cheeses, or asparagus. Sandeman's Character ($14.99) is a delicious Amontillado sherry that's dry, though there is just a hint of sweetness to round out the flavors. This would go nicely with a plate of fancy hams, olives, cheese, and nuts.

Gonzalez Byass Apostoles ($17.99 for a .375 bottle) is a Palo Cortado sherry made from Palomino grapes (97%), with just a touch of Pedro Ximenez grapes (3%) for richness. This wine has the nutty aroma of an Amontillado, along with the viscosity of an Olorosso. Of the sherries I tried, this one stood out as my overall favorite; I would savor it all by itself. Finally, moving into the sweetest category, Lustau's East India Solera ($18.49) is a wonderful dessert drink. Made entirely from Pedro Ximenez grapes, the wine has a deep, rich color and an unctuous mouthfeel. Made from raisins with just enough acid to keep your palate refreshed, it tastes almost like honey. If you want to go a little crazy, pour some of this over some vanilla ice cream.

One last point: Sherries' most appealing characteristics don't last. I've seen people open a bottle of sherry and then store it for years and wonder why it doesn't taste very good. Sherry should be drunk as soon as you open it. And in the case of Finos, you should try to find out how long it has been on the store's shelves: the younger, the better.