Las Palmas

Las Palmas (Photo By John Anderson)

Las Palmas

Monday-Thursday 11am-10pm, Friday-Saturday, 11am-11pm; closed Sunday
Mexican food in Austin tends to be remarkably homogeneous. Plain beef fajitas, Old El Paso-spiced carne guisada, and electric-yellow enchiladas oozing with cheese define the kitchens at Mexican joints all over town. After a while they all begin to blend together, each restaurant offering only minor variations in taste or presentation. And so it is truly noteworthy when a Mexican restaurant that manages to transcend the featureless landscape of Tex-Mex anonymity opens. The recently launched Las Palmas is rapidly attaining conspicuous altitude.

Las Palmas operates from the little corner store originally occupied by Austin's much-beloved Nuevo Leon -- a hard act to follow, for certain, but Las Palmas is so far doing an admirable job. Inside, the restaurant is at once recognizable. The tables, the rickety booths, and even the front case selling pralines and peanut brittle are all the same. The only real decorative alteration is a new Loteria-themed paint job, a token of the regular Friday night game Las Palmas hosts.

While the menu itself is nothing new, the execution at Las Palmas really stands out. The food is honest, made with care, almost as if someone's grandmother prepared it at home. And, in fact, owner Monica Cantu's mother presides over the kitchen with a watchful eye. Traditional quesadillas are made from corn tortillas that enfold white asadero cheese and homemade salsa picante. Nachos are made from thick chips individually topped with beans, cheese, and guacamole. Enchiladas poblanas are rolled with spongy corn tortillas and shredded chicken, then lightly blanketed in a fiery mole that is as sweetly complex as it is satiny. These enchiladas contain not a speck of cheese, even on the top. Instead they are garnished with toasted sesame seeds, which ably enhance the nutty undertones of the mole.

The restaurant specializes in the traditional Mexican fare of the northern and upper Gulf Coast regions. Grilled meats and seafood, rather than the heavy cheese and thick sauces that define Tex-Mex, form the backbone of its menu. Steak accented with a light ranchero sauce or grilled ô la Mexicana with peppers and onions have an authentically Norteño flavor. Savory, chewy, and lightly caramelized, the meat forms the centerpiece of the meal. Ceviche, fresh, whole snapper done with mojo de ajo, or prepared Veracruzano-style with tomatoes and olives evoke the sunny Gulf Coast and seductive strains of danzon. And their shrimp ô la diabla features a sinfully delicious pile of crustaceans tossed with fried potato slices and buried in a bracing, smoky chipotle sauce. Accompanied by buttered white rice and freshly made tortillas, the whole ensemble is worth the price of more than a few souls. Simple, fresh, and home-cooked, the food at Las Palmas offers refreshing, shelter from the glaring uniformity of Austin's expansive Tex-Mex industry.