Second Helpings
Continental Restaurants
Fri., April 19, 2002
The Emerald Restaurant
13614 W. Hwy. 71, 263-2147Daily, 5-11pm
A short drive into the Texas Hill Country leads you to this cozy, candlelit cottage with Irish lace curtains, imported Irish bone china, and your hosts the Kinsella family, who still have just the hint of an Irish brogue. For more than 20 years, the Emerald has been known for what was once called "continental cuisine," pricey and voluptuous European meals with ample cuts of meat, fish, and fowl napped in decadently rich sauces, and a lengthy, expensive wine list to match. The atmosphere is casual, and the service is friendly but leisurely paced, making dinner an all-evening affair.
Paggi House
200 Lee Barton, 478-1121Monday-Friday, 11:30am-2pm; 6-10pm; Saturday, 6-10pm
Nestled under sheltering oaks on a gentle rise overlooking the Colorado River, the Paggi House occupies one of the three oldest surviving homes in Travis County. The original structure was a pre-Civil War plantation house and later the home of a prominent 19th-century Austin businessman, Michael Paggi. Today, the charming brick cottage is home to a small, romantic restaurant serving an eclectic mix of continental and American regional dishes. Choose to dine on the comfortable enclosed patio or in one of the tastefully appointed dining rooms. Full bar and professional service.
The Belgian Cafe
3520 Bee Caves Rd., 328-0580Monday-Friday, 11:30am-2:30pm, 6-10pm; Saturday & Sunday, 6-10pm
This veteran West Lake Hills eatery is approaching its 20th anniversary in November of 2002, and still serves French and French-inspired fare in a simple, romantic setting. When Felix Flores purchased the popular restaurant from founding chef Jean-Louis DeHoux, one of the changes he made was to add a daily $8, all-you-can-eat lunch buffet -- where diners can choose from two entrées, vegetables, sides, soups, and salads -- that has developed a loyal following among neighborhood business folks. Dinner time still features a choice of French and Belgian country favorites, with a rose for every lady.
Chez Nous
510 Neches, 473-2413Tuesday-Friday, 11:45am-2pm;
Tuesday-Sunday, 6-10:30pm
Small and intimate, this grandmere of Austin's French restaurants serves classic bistro fare such as a rustic homemade pté, croque monsieur, escargot, poisson meuniere (fish of the day in butter, parsley, and lemon juice), and steak frites to a very dedicated downtown lunch crowd. Dinner customers love the restaurant's Menu du Jour, a choice of one of three daily entrées, plus soup, salad, or pté, and dessert, all for a remarkable $19.50. After all these years, we're still partial to the Salade Lyonnaise and the simply elegant Mousse au Chocolat.
La Madeleine
3418 N. Lamar, 302-1486701 Capital of Texas Hwy. S., 306-1998
9828 Great Hills Trail, 502-2474
Sunday-Thursday, 7am-10pm;
Friday & Saturday, 7am-11pm
A Texas-born bakery/cafe chain which does a big weekday lunch business and draws huge Sunday-after-church crowds. Diners slide their trays down the cafeteria-style line to order quiches, salads, soups (among them an addictive tomato-basil cream concoction), and sandwiches on dense homemade bread and croissants. Fans also stop in here for breads and a few other select specialty food items from the bakery side, while breakfast (with good coffee), and dinner (with wine) are also served inside the homey, "French country" location. Many of their more popular prepared items are now available via their mail-order catalog.
Aquarelle
606 Rio Grande, 479-8117Tuesday-Thursday, 6-9:45pm;
Friday & Saturday, 6-10:15pm
Details such as elegant painted china, replacement of the elegant cutlery with every course, and dainty amuse-bouche served between each course give the meals at Aquarelle a definite air of old world refinement. The restaurant's menu bespeaks a studied mastery of French haute cuisine, and unlike many restaurants today, Aquarelle bows low before the canon. Consider the inviting, prix-fixe degustation menus, although it's now possible to opt for Cuisine Rapide, a simpler three-course prix-fixe menu.
The Alpenhof Steak Haus
16018 Hamilton Pool Rd., 263-9875Tuesday-Sunday, 6-10pm
This family-owned Swiss country steak haus has been a Hill Country treasure for many years. Current chef/owner Pepi Kohler learned the business at the side of his father, Fritz, in their former location on RR 620, and relocated to the comfortable new site several years ago. Though the menu is primarily steaks, they also offer seafood, veal, and fowl, plus a vegetarian platter. The setting is relaxed, and the dress is "Austin casual."
