'Extra Virgin' Evokes a Passion for Food
Couple's book shares romance of Tuscany with stories, recipes, photos
By Maggie Perkins,
12:30PM, Wed. Jun. 11, 2014
Our favorites among their anecdotes become our "friends" in that delightfully odd way our favorite novels draw us in; we are invited to the dance, through stories and in this case, recipes, in a way so intimate and intoxicating that we feel under the author’s spell. We regale anyone who listens with third-person tales of their countryside picnics and al fresco dining among the magic of fireflies. We fall in love again. With food.
Extra Virgin: Recipes and Love From Our Tuscan Kitchen
by Gabriele Corcos and Debi Mazar
Clarkson Potter/Publishers, 272pp., $32.50
This new book is the lovechild of charming husband and wife team, Gabriele Corcos and Debi Mazar, who can be seen currently on the Cooking Channel’s popular Extra Virgin, and their blog Under the Tuscan Gun. Born of a desire to share the culture of food in which Gabriele was raised with their, then-unborn child, the project was 10 years in the making, and rhapsodically documents a labor of love, from cover to cover, through food, family, friends, and geography of place. A tapestry of simple, perfect ingredients combined with a little kitchen alchemy – this book weaves that spell, my friends.
For the uninitiated, or beginning cook, the book begins with a chapter on the Tuscan Kitchen Essentials, with recommendations of pantry and freezer staples, as well as kitchen equipment, and even the most seasoned cooks are likely to discover something new — the difference between pancetta and guanciale, perhaps, or the superiority of Italian doppio zero flour for baking. The book is then divided into courses: appetizers, pastas and sauces, risotto, soup, salads, meat, fish, vegetables, pizza, panini, desserts, and drinks. Basic recipes for Tuscan bread, pizza dough, homemade pasta, red sauce, vegetable stock, and more, mingle among the more ambitious dishes such as the Livorno-style Mixed Fish Stew with its 1-pound octopus, cleaned and beak removed.
Though there are the occasional projects, most of the recipes are simple, with manageable ingredient lists that serve to showcase the main characters, rather than overwhelm. Inspired by the book to share the bounty with friends, I prepared the unanimously well-received Peach and Fennel Salad, p.125, alongside Grilled Endive with Gorgonzola and Sage Oil, p.186. The recipes delivered, and then some. Basking in the glory of a meal well-enjoyed, they made this cook look like she really knew what she was doing. The instructions were easy to follow, and each dish lived up to its promise—universal praise around the table.
As we gathered, the early summer evening filled with mmm’s, aaah’s, and ohhh’s, the clink of glasses, forks spearing bites straight from the serving dishes. There was laughter and culinary delight among notoriously discerning palates, a scene not unlike those imagined while leafing through the book’s 120 recipes, many destined to take up residence as cooks’ favorites, illustrated by evidence of a chef’s passion, amid scenes of enviable domestic bliss.
That evening, there may have been fireflies.
Guest reviewer Maggie Perkins blogs at www.frommaggiesfarm.blogspot.com/