This Little Piggy's Going to New York
Salty Sow previews upcoming Beard House dinner
By Rachel Feit, 11:00AM, Mon. Jan. 27, 2014
Last Wednesday, the Salty Sow hosted the first of two preview dinners for the meal Chef Harold Marmulstein will cook for the James Beard Foundation House in New York City on February 27th.
Chef Marmulstein, who comes to Austin by way of upstate New York and Atlanta, has so far impressed Austinites with his high concept nose-to-tail comfort food. He’ll have a chance to strut his stuff and answer questions about his culinary aesthetic for New York’s foodies next month.
Wednesday night’s menu was a six course affair, starting with a tempting array of bite sized appetizers, most of which are also featured on the regular menu. Spoiler alert: The oyster stuffed boudin fritters with spicy remoulade stole the show.
As the name of the restaurant implies, the Salty Sow’s menu is heavily swine-based, and the preview menu was no less so. Marmulstein’s style of cooking favors big flavors and hearty ingredients—eggs, truffle oil, polenta, and cheese are frequent guests on the plate.
It surprised me then that my favorite dish of the night was a lightly dressed frisee salad, speckled with lardons, bright radish slices, roasted beets, goat cheese, and draped with a poached egg. Like a snuggly blanket, the egg’s runny yolk had a unifying effect over the disparate elements of the salad. Cold smoked pork tenderloin over cheese grits accented with a sweet and sour apple chutney was another winner.
Food lovers mark your calendars. The preview menu will be served again on Wednesday, February 5th (without the bite sized appetizer course) and costs $55 per person without wine. Optional wine pairings with each course will run only $20 more. Reservations should be made in advance by phone.
1917 Manor Rd. 512/391-2337
Monday-Thursday, 4:30-10pm; Friday-Sunday, 4:30-11pm