Day Trips
By Gerald E. McLeod, Fri., April 12, 2002
The Durango to Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad in Durango, Colo., chugs up the river valley like a giant yellow and black caterpillar puffing dark smoke out of its head. The beauty of the San Juan Mountains and National Forest passing the steam train's windows can't be described in words nor adequately captured on an artist's canvas. From the reds of sheer mountain cliffs to the forest greenery, the three-and-a-half hour climb is an assault on the senses. Colorful butterflies dance around brilliant flowers in the meadows or you might see a bighorn sheep watching suspiciously from a safe, high perch as the train passes.
Opened in 1882, the steel rails hauled more than $300 million of silver and gold ore from the remote camps by the time the last mine closed in 1991. From the beginning, the train was promoted as a scenic route for passengers as well as a working freight hauler through the almost inaccessible canyons of the Animas River Valley. By 1947, sightseers became the primary cargo. The 45-mile Durango to Silverton Branch is an isolated segment of a network of nearly 500 miles of rails that once stretched from Denver to Salt Lake City.
The National Park Service designated the coal-fired steam train a National Historical Landmark and travel guides consistently rate the trip as one of the top vacation attractions in the U.S. The railroad staff do an excellent job of ensuring the comfort of their guests.
When planning a trip on the D&SNG, the place to start is the railroad's Web site, www.durangotrain.com. The online reservation system works very well and simplifies the process. It is recommended to buy tickets as early as possible because many trips sell out. The summer schedule runs from May 11 to October 26 with as many as four trains running daily during the peak period of June 24 to August 8. A "Winter Cascade" train runs once a day through the snow-covered passes from November 21 to May 10.
The first train out in the morning arrives at Silverton around noon for the two-hour layover, and the last one arrives back at Durango at 7pm. Summer service begins at 8:15am except during the summer peak period when a 7:30am train is added. The winter train leaves Durango at 10am and returns from Cascade Canyon at 3:05pm.
The railroad uses open gondola cars, closed passenger cars, and a parlor car for passengers over 21 years of age. Fares run from $55 to $99 for adults and $27 and $30 for children. The gondola cars offer a more unobstructed view, while the closed cars can be more comfortable in the crisp mountain air. The parlor cars provide complimentary refreshments, but the view is no more spectacular from the padded seats.
The train is called a "narrow gauge" because the rails are 3 feet apart instead of the standard 4 feet. The narrower width was cheaper to build and handles the tight mountain curves better. It is difficult to see any difference from inside the cars. Most of the rolling stock is vintage 1920s, with the closed cars equipped with restrooms and the concession car serving snacks and beverages.
Instead of taking a roundtrip train ride, for an extra $5 per person there is bus service that returns passengers to Durango from Silverton in about an hour and a half. This might sound like a strange thing to do after going on more than a day trip from Austin, but it can have its practical applications. The round trip on the train can take nine hours and no matter how relaxing the ride, this can be a long day. If you opt for the bus ride back, ask for a right-hand seat on the train when you purchase your tickets for the best views.
Through its 120-year history the railroad has survived floods that washed out track, snowdrifts so deep that tunnels were dug for the trains to pass through, and a flu epidemic that wiped out a large portion of the town's population. Through it all the picturesque 1882 depot at the south end of downtown has been a stalwart in the community. Durango has managed to retain a small-town feel while also offering a wide variety of services and recreational opportunities besides the train.
Once the train arrives in Silverton there are shops to explore and restaurants to satisfy your hungers. Surrounded by mountains, the town is only about three blocks wide and 10 blocks long. It is possible to arrange an overnight layover in town with mine and forest tours. For information, call 800/752-4494 or go to www.silverton.org.
The D&SNG railroad is owned by American Heritage Railways, which owns the Great Smokey Mountains Railroad in North Carolina. For a brochure and schedule on the Colorado railroad, call 800/408-0230.
566th in a series. Day Trips, Vol. 2, a book of Day Trips 101-200, is available for $8.95, plus $3.05 for shipping, handling, and tax. Mail to: Day Trips, PO Box 33284, South Austin, TX 78704.
